Wriggly Tin adds new wrinkle to the Dallas beer scene

All photos © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D.

On a Saturday in December 2019, a spot local beer lovers had come to know as Small Brewpub closed its doors in Oak Cliff. It was a unique little place (literally), with good food and an eclectic range of brews borne out of what, at the time, was one of the more creative approaches to beer-making in the local scene.

It was a loss, but there were rumblings another chapter would be written down the road. Time passed, with word eventually getting out that Small co-founder Aaron Garcia and partner Jacob Boger were working on a new habitat on S. Haskell St. in the shadow of Fair Park. Small Brewpub would not return, but Small Beer Works was now a thing as part of a new project called Wriggly Tin.

Small patrons once wondered if beers like Black Pepper Pils and Underdog IPA would see the light of day again. Four years later, these indeed appear along with other creations (Oro Moro Dark Lager, Hart German Helles) on the menu at Wriggly Tin, which officially opened earlier this month.

Wriggly sets up as an attractive destination for patio pours near Dallas Fair Park.

So, what exactly is a Wriggly Tin?

Well, if you're talking about what inspired the name of the place, it has to do with the corrugated sheets of iron covering the half-circle shaped structure the brewpub calls home. The U.K. military called these wavy or wrinkled sheets of metal wriggly tin.

If you're talking about Garcia and Boger's vision for the business, though, Wriggly Tin is a "cocktail, wine, and pizza joint that also sells Small Beer Works beer."

And, that's just the sort of vibe you get upon visiting. With the brewhouse hidden beyond the dining room and kitchen indoors, house beer production is only one Small part of a larger scheme. Whether it be lager-leaning recipes designed for a more diverse range of beer drinker, the universal appeal of pizza offerings from Chef Desmon Coleman, or all the little touches coming together to shape the entirely handmade decor, the approach celebrates "what the common people of the world love."

Denizens of Dallas love a patio too, by the way, and Wriggly Tin has one checking all the boxes of an urban beer oasis.

Enjoy beer offerings like Hart, a German-style helles lager, inside the dining room or outside in the open air.

Also important is the welcoming nature about the place, starting with the attentiveness of the staff, which includes knowledgeable beer tenders willing to guide patrons through sample sips as they decide on an order. The presence of ownership actively circulating through the crowd, something seemingly more and more rare, was noticeable as well.

It all makes for the kind of place you want to settle in and stay awhile...not just for a quick beer and a bite, but more for an evening of dinner and drinks without distraction (no televisions were sighted). Perhaps this explains why Wriggly Tin is only open late afternoons and evenings (Wed-Sun, 4 p.m. - 12 a.m.) leading into the weekend.

Wriggly Tin may not be a full-on revival of Garcia's former business, but the new venture is driven by the same guiding principles behind what became a craft beer fan favorite. So essentially, it's a new space with an old soul, and that's no small thing. Then again, a "Small" thing is probably exactly what it's meant to be.

Small Brewpub closing in Oak Cliff

Image credit: Small Brewpub.

Opting not to renew its lease, Small Brewpub of Dallas has announced it will close on the occasion of its fifth anniversary.

Debuting in December 2014, Small Brewpub was part of a redevelopment effort along Jefferson Boulevard in Oak Cliff. Originally, the spot attracted the foodie crowd in addition to local beer lovers, based on unique culinary offerings created by chef Misti Norris. So much so, in fact, Bon Appétit  magazine included Small Brewpub on a list of 50 nominees for its 2015 survey of America's Best New Restaurants.

The overall approach changed, however, after ownership shifted gears in the summer of 2016. Hoping to appeal to a wider audience, Small Brewpub parted ways with Norris and adopted a simpler, more approachable menu in line with traditional pub fare.

With regard to the brewing operation, Black Pepper Pils was probably Small Brewpub's most well-known beer, but also notable was the brewpub's work with gypsy brewer Barrett Tillman of Black Man Brewing. Collaborations with Tillman began in 2015, having continued on through present day.

As for the when the closure becomes official, the final service at Small Brewpub is set for Saturday, December 7.

North Texas Craft Beer Conspectus - November 14, 2017 edition

In this, the first edition of the Conspectus since the close of NTX Beer Week, new beers and a brewpub-to-be make an appearance, as does a bit of distro news from out of Fort Worth. Additionally, one Dallas brewery provides consumers with an early look at its 2018 lineup.

Cheers!

The beers of Beer Week

In case you missed it, a number of beers were released during the aforementioned NTX Beer Week. The list of new brews includes 2017 Braindead Hammer of the Gods and Bent de Garde (to-go bottles, sold at the brewery), 2017 Community Barrel-Aged Legion (retail four-packs), Hemisphere Black Sacrament (draft, brewery only), Lakewood Cuvée de Vélo (on-premise bottles, sold at the brewery), Noble Rey Eagle Tears (to-go cans, sold at the brewery) and Texas Ale Project Blood IPA (draft accounts).

Small Brewpub debuts first bottled beer

For the first time in its three-year history, Small Brewpub of Dallas has bottled one of its beers for take home sales. Lord of the Beers is a concoction inspired by Lord of the Pies, an apple pie made by Small Brewpub's fellow Oak Cliff establishment, Emporium Pies. Fermented with spiced granny smith apples provided by Emporium, Lord of the Beers is an English strong ale that's been aged in rye whiskey barrels.


White Rock Alehouse & Brewery obtains TABC approval

White Rock Alehouse & Brewery is now an officially licensed entity, after its permit was approved last week by the Texas Alcoholic Beverage Commission (TABC). The brewpub has yet to announce an opening date, but it will be situated in a retail development at 7331 Gaston Ave. in Dallas (that's just across the road from On Rotation). White Rock owners Dave Kirk and Greg Nixon have hired Blake Morrison, formerly of Cedar Creek Brewery and Whistle Post Brewing Co., to head up brewing operations.


Collective headed to Cali

The Collective Brewing Project of Fort Worth has announced its intent to begin distribution to California. To that end, the company has signed on with Lime Ventures, a wholesaler based in Concord. In a blog posted to the brewery's website, co-founder and California native, Ryan Deyo, discusses how the move will now allow him to send his beers to family and friends back home. Initial shipments to The Golden State are expected to occur in December.


Deep Ellum unveils 2018 production schedule

Looking ahead to next year, Deep Ellum Brewing Co. of Dallas has published its production schedule for 2018. In addition to the return of Oak Cliff Coffee Ale and the release of Play Date in cans, the lineup includes new barrel-aged offerings (Bellman's Bride, Vinous Ado), plus the first beers in the Deep Ellum Barrelhouse series (Farmhouse Ale, Sour Red Ale). More on those beers, and others, can be found by expanding the image to the right, where you can see the complete list of expected releases.

Shannon offers up something Mór

Shannon Brewing Co. of Keller has launched Mór IPA, a beer whose name is derived from the Irish word for "big." Along those lines, the beer is said to be "a big celebration of aromatic hops," with hop varieties such as Warrior, Simcoe, Citra and Amarillo being used in its creation. Mór IPA is a year-round beer, set to be available on draft and in six-packs of 12-ounce cans.

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Image credits (top to bottom): NTX Beer Week, Small Brewpub, White Rock Alehouse & Brewery, The Collective Brewing Project, Deep Ellum Brewing Co. Shannon Brewing Co.

Get a taste of something 'Small'

Image credit:  Small Brewpub
(click to enlarge)

While the specific plans and opening date of the Small Brewpub are still being kept under wraps, opportunities exist to get a taste of what the future Jefferson Boulevard establishment may have to offer.

A subscription to their newsletter (link located at the bottom of their website's splash page) will get you details on pop-up tastings that have been occurring on roughly a monthly basis.  Beginning this Friday, these small backyard beer bashes will now include a musical element.

From the newsletter:

"Small Brewpub is proud to begin hosting a traveling Backyard Concert Series, with musicians from around town and abroad.  The first concert will be September 27th.

The concerts will be free with a suggested donation, but you must RSVP to attend.  There will always be free beer provided by Small."

According to the ongoing event page, the aforementioned donation will be $10.  Space is limited, and the location of the show will only be available to those who RSVP.

Rumor Mill: Small Brewpub to be part of Oak Cliff development

Image credit:  Jim Lake Companies

Earlier this week, in a speech surrounding his GrowSouth economic development plan, Dallas Mayor Mike Rawlings made mention of a brewpub in the works, slated to be built along Jefferson Boulevard in Oak Cliff.  After a little digging, I was pointed in the direction of a video which connected the dots to a name that surfaced back in January during a discussion at a local beer event.  At the time, stories of backyard beer tastings and a business plan in the formative stages were taken with a grain of salt, but it now appears there is at least some truth to the rumors.

The Small Brewpub shows up as part of developer Jim Lake's Jefferson Tower project.  His name may be familiar to some, as his group has also been involved in Bishop Arts and the Dallas Design District.  The brewpub-to-be appears shortly after the one-minute mark of the presentation, but there's no word on when construction is expected to begin or a projected opening date.  A twitter handle, @Smallbrewpub, was created earlier this year, however, no activity has been recorded to this point.  You can also find a website template up at http://www.smallbrewpub.com.

Back in its heyday, the Metroplex was home to as many as ten brewpubs (not counting multiple locations) open at one time, with names like Yegua Creek (Dallas' first), Copper Tank, Panther City (Fort Worth's first) and even Breckenridge lighting up restaurant marquees.  The only survivor from that time still in existence today is Humperdinks (the area's longest running active brewing operation), though there is talk of Rock Bottom returning someday as well.

Currently, in addition to Humperdink's and the Gordon Biersch chain, local brewpubs include the Bass Pro Shops attachment Uncle Buck's in Grapevine, the currently idle Union Bear in Dallas, and the fledgling Zio Carlo Magnolia Brewpub in Fort Worth.  Lately, though, there has been a renewed call for a fully locally owned and operated brewpub to be located in Dallas.  Union Bear fits this description, but even if they were to resume brewing, they don't have the capacity to generate a portfolio of hometown brews like many Austin-based entities produce, or what for some would be the model brewpub in Freetail Brewing out of San Antonio.

Perhaps sometime soon the Small Brewpub, or other names yet to be revealed, will deliver just that.