Showing posts with label Great American Beer Festival. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Great American Beer Festival. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 16, 2024

Crafting judgement - inside the GABF evaluation process: a guest post by Collin Zreet

Image: Brewers Association.

With another round of the Great American Beer Festival come and gone, there still seems to be a shroud of mystery around the competition process and what it really means to win one of these illustrious awards.

For 2024, there were 8,836 beers and 233 ciders entered into 109 categories (including 170 subcategories) evaluated by 285 expert beer judges. With the addition of judging ciders, this year also saw changes like the creation of three non-alcoholic beer categories (Pale Non-Alcoholic, Amber/Dark Non-Alcoholic, and Specialty Non-Alcoholic), as opposed to one overall non-alcoholic category last year. The largest categories were not surprisingly IPA related: Juicy or Hazy India Pale Ale (349 entries), West Coast IPA (292 entries), and American-Style India Pale Ale (217 entries), with the latter two categories being in one combined category just two years ago. Dortmunder or German-Style Oktoberfest (210 entries) and German-Style Maerzen (195 entries) were also large categories, likely due to the seasonality of the styles being so close to the competition dates.

Unlike homebrew competitions, professional beer competitions are more about hardware and winning than identifying off-flavors and needed process adjustments (though that doesn't mean professional beers are free from off-flavors or other glaring errors). Brewers want to compare their creations with the best across the country and need unbiased qualified judges to provide that feedback. Judges are not chosen at random, nor do they have a bias towards one region of the country over another, as others have speculated.

The judge selection process requires candidates to detail their qualifications in either sensory/QA, professional brewing, extensive beer judging, and/or raw material expertise. Upper-level qualifications from the Cicerone Certification Program and Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) help, but are not necessarily required. On top of those qualifications, judges also submit three letters of recommendation from colleagues that are familiar with their judging qualifications. Once all criteria are submitted, there is typically a two to three year waiting period and invitations are usually sent out a few months before the actual judging occurs. Judges are from all over the country and range from brewers to sensory analysts, yeast lab specialists, hop growers, and even non-commercial high ranking BJCP homebrew judges. There are typically 10% new judges each year, though this year there were 33% new judges, likely from bringing in specialized judges for the newly created cider categories.

But how does a beer progress from a competition entry to bringing home some hardware? Once a brewery decides which beers they want to enter into the competition, they have to declare which category they want to submit their beer into and pay a $180 per beer fee to register it. Choosing a category isn’t as simple as one might think. With so many categories, some beers might actually fit in a few different categories and breweries need to decide which is the “best” category to enter into. This might not even be the category the beer is marketed as (see Houston-based Saint Arnold Brewing Co.'s silver medal winning Scottish-style ale, Saint Arnold Oktoberfest). Being able to discern where a beer truly fits is a winning strategy within itself.

After a beer has been registered and then brewed, it then needs to be sent to the Brewers Association in Boulder, Colorado, where it will be held in refrigeration until it is judged. The Texas Craft Brewers Guild has collection points across the state that allow member breweries to have their beer driven via refrigerated truck all the way to allow for the beers to be in the best condition upon arrival. This does lend a slight advantage for Colorado breweries, as they are able to send fresher beer without the worry of longer travel times than other breweries.

The first session of judging typically happens a few weeks before the actual festival in Denver, with a second session occurring just days before the festival. All judging is done double-blind, so judges are not aware of what specific beer or what brewery’s beer they are judging, and they are not even aware after the festival unless they won a medal. There’s a dedicated team of non-judge volunteers pouring beer and another team running beers to the judging tables to avoid any kind of bias. Judges are also not allowed to judge their own beers.

A typical beer flight is between eight and twelve two-ounce samples and may have several rounds of judging based on the size of the category. Each table has six judges, and each pod of three will evaluate the same flight of beers. The first round is the only round that requires judges to provide written feedback to breweries. No longer are there quantitative scores for each beer, but more open-ended qualitative feedback is provided. The first round is mostly to eliminate beers with off-flavors and large stylistic errors, though sometimes good beers do not advance from this round in favor of other better beers. Of each round, only three move on to the following round. Beyond the first round, all other assessments are between the judges and not recorded. These rounds are typically twelve beers each and are served similarly, passing on three to the following round as well. 

The final round is the same, except all six judges at the table are then deciding between the twelve samples set in front of them. This is where the nitpicking really occurs. Imagine out of all the commercial beers in the U.S. for a certain category, you have the best twelve in front of you and not only have to decide the best three, but which receive gold, silver, and bronze medals. Usually no one agrees at first, and you have to systematically discuss each beer and argue against five other highly accredited beer judges why you think ones should or should not stay on the table for medal consideration. The margins are so small between them and sometimes reasoning even gets philosophical on why one aspect of one beer is more stylistically accurate over another. It gets even more complicated when you consider categories like Experimental Beer, Non-Alcoholic Beer, or Wood-Aged Beer when you are also judging across several different base styles that don’t all have the same criteria.

If you look at some of the larger categories that had three rounds of judging, it typically means that each beer that makes it to the final table has been assessed by twelve different judges, and the category itself has been assessed by 126 different judges in total. Even smaller two round categories have beers assessed by nine judges. For any beer to even make it that far, much less even medal, is a wonderful achievement. Participating breweries are only notified if their beer made it out of the first round and if they medaled. So, even the margin between medaling and not medaling (3rd and 4th place) could be the slimmest of margins, but no one would even know the difference, not even the judges. 

On a typical day, judges assess five to six flights per day across three or four days (depending on session). While it might seem like all fun and games to drink beer in Colorado for a few days (and for sure it is at times), the process and end goal is to objectively assess all of the beers (even the bad ones) and determine the best beers in the U.S., which is taken very seriously by all of the judges.

Congratulations to all of the D-FW local and Texas breweries that participated this year and even brought home some hardware. It is a difficult task to even make it out of the first round, much less progress any further. Please continue to support those local breweries that you love. It is still very difficult for all of them out there, and they all could use your support.



Collin Zreet is a former brewery owner (Funky Picnic Brewery & Café) and one of only eight Advanced Cicerones in the State of Texas. Throughout his experiences in the craft beer industry, he has specialized in sensory and beer quality, judging several professional beer competitions, including the Great American Beer Festival, and being an instrumental part of setting the styles and guidelines for the Texas Craft Brewers Guild’s annual state-wide Texas Craft Brewers Cup. He also specializes in beer and food pairing, creating and leading over 25 beer dinners across the Dallas-Fort Worth Metroplex.

Monday, October 14, 2024

An evolving experience at the 2024 Great American Beer Festival

Photo courtesy of Brewers Association.

They say change is inevitable, and after walking in for the 15th time, it didn't take long to notice the first of a series of changes instituted for the 2024 Great American Beer Festival, presented by the Brewers Association. Why, you ask? Well, the lights were off over the section of the festival floor closest to brewer/media entry door.

This year, the tradition of organizing breweries primarily by region was scrapped. Instead, themed areas were introduced, with brewers given the option of picking where to pitch their proverbial tent. In addition to where the darkness fell upon the Fright (Halloween) and Blast Off (outer space, far out flavors) sections, there were more luminous areas to Chill (live music and games), to check the Score! (televised sports), and to Prost! (German biergarten).

As for other attractions, some we've seen before, like karaoke, silent disco, and the "History of Craft Beer" exhibit. But then, there was live Lucha Libre (a Mexican style of wrestling) and a mechanical bull, new additions that brought a bit of spectacle to the proceedings.

The bull was well-ridden, the wrestling seemed well-received, and while the question of "Who turned out the lights?" was posed a time or ten, most agreed some type of change in presentation was needed to breathe new life into the event. At least during the Thursday night session, the attendance and energy quotients certainly seemed higher compared to last year.

And, the liquid lineup? Beverage options had already expanded in response to the industry trend of diversifying to reach other types of drinkers, though it felt like beer alternatives were even more present this time around. With a plethora of ciders, seltzers, kombucha, hard sodas and teas, and now canned cocktails, one could argue the Great American Beer Festival of the past is more like a Great American Beverage Festival at present.

That said, naturally there was beer and plenty of it. Like last year, IPAs and various types of lagers dominated menus, with specialty styles fewer and far between. For example, there weren't more than two or three options for beer drinkers hoping to sample Belgian dubbels, German dopplebocks and dunkleweizens, English milds, Flanders beers, or old ales.

Locals from North Texas primarily poured standards from their portfolios as well, those in attendance being 903 Brewers of Sherman, False Idol Brewing of North Richland Hills, Martin House Brewing Co. of Fort Worth, Odd Muse Brewing Co. of Farmers Branch, Peticolas Brewing Co. of Dallas, and Union Bear Brewing Co. of Denton/Plano.

Among national breweries, the longest lines and some of the most sought-after beers were associated with the likeliest suspects: Russian River Brewing Co. and The Lost Abbey of California, WeldWerks Brewing Co. of Colorado, Dogfish Head Brewery of Delaware, 3 Floyds Brewing of Indiana, and Toppling Goliath Brewing Co. of Iowa.

One single-ounce standout was sourced from those above, thanks to Russian River rolling two lines to offset the craft beer electorate looking to cast a vote for Pliny for President 2024, a triple dry-hopped IPA. I didn't vote myself, choosing instead for the quicker path to the brewery's quadrupel, Mortification.

That beer and other festival favorites are shared here based on the idea readers might be traveling and seeking refreshment in the vicinity of a particular purveyor. This also applies to the taproom trip summaries that follow the requisite coverage of local award winners (both pro and amateur) below.

  • Brew 8000 Barrel-Aged Barleywine from Fremont Brewing of Washington.
  • Charles' Kvass from Burns Family Artisan Ales of Colorado.
  • Chocolate Rye Farm Porter from The Colorado Farm Brewery of Colorado.
  • Decorah Nordic Gruit from Pivo Brewery of Iowa.
  • Double Dunkel from Wibby Brewing of Colorado.
  • Mortification Quadrupel from Russian River Brewing Co. of California.
  • Rip This Joint Barrel-Aged Imperial Stout from Firestone Walker Brewing Co. of California and Side Project Brewing of Missouri.
  • Rode Vogel Flanders Red from Strangebird Beer of New York.

Cheers! 


Professional competition results

Changes also extended to the GABF competition. New categories included one for Italian-Style Pilsner, while cider judging took place for the first time with five categories added covering different varieties.

Most-entered categories again favored IPAs, with Juicy/Hazy IPA, West Coast IPA and American-Style IPA securing the top three spots. Then, in perhaps a bit of a surprise, the Dortmunder or German-Style Oktoberfest and German-Style Maerzen categories supplanted Light Lager and German-Style Pilsner (#3 and #5 in 2023) to round out the top five.

Statistics:

  • 8,836 beers judged based on entries sent in from 1,869 breweries and cideries residing in all 50 U.S. states, Washington D.C. and Puerto Rico.
  • 326 total medals awarded across 109 style categories.

As for local winners, four North Texas breweries were honored. Among them, Bankhead Brewing Co. of Rowlett landed its second medal in a row for Hootenanny Bock. The brewpub has now acquired four GABF medals all time (three in the last two years alone), third-most among active brewing operations since 2012.

First time GABF medalists include On Rotation Brewery & Kitchen of Dallas, Odd Muse Brewing Co. of Farmers Branch, and Three Wide Brewing Co. of Fort Worth. Though, it's notable that Three Wide's win for Heart of Glass is a repeat of sorts, since it's based on the recipe and brewed by the same crew behind Rapture Fusion Brown Ale, which won a silver for Rabbit Hole Brewing Co. of Justin in 2015. 

Silver

  • On Rotation Brewery & Kitchen for Jalapeño Saison - Chile Beer.
  • Odd Muse Brewing Co. for 500 Pesos - International-Style Pilsner.
  • Three Wide Brewing Co. for Heart of Glass - American-Style Brown Ale.
Bronze
  • Bankhead Brewing Co. for Hootenanny - Bock.

Representatives from Odd Muse (top left), Bankhead (top right) and Three Wide (bottom)
accept their awards at the 2024 Great American Beer Festival (Photos: Brewers Association).

Source: Individual research.

National Homebrew Competition results

Another new aspect of this year's GABF event was the announcement of the 2024 National Homebrew Competition winners, the crowning ceremony taking place literally as the festival was going on.

Statistics:

  • 3,593 beers judged based on entries sent in from 1,179 homebrewers in 47 U.S. states, Washington D.C., and 7 international countries.
  • 150 total medals awarded across 50 style categories.

Five locally-made brews garnered recognition, with Jarrett Long and John Bates of the Fort Worth-based club, Horsemen of the Hopocalypse, further winning the Ninkasi Award, a prize given to the homebrewer (or team) accumulating the most points during the final round of competition.

Gold
  • Jarrett Long with John Bates of Horsemen of the Hopocalypse, Fort Worth - Brown British Beer.
Silver
  • Ian Heger of North Texas Homebrewers Association, Dallas - American Wheat & Blond.
  • Jarrett Long with John Bates of Horsemen of the Hopocalypse, Fort Worth - American Porter & Stout.
  • Jarrett Long with John Bates of Horsemen of the Hopocalypse, Fort Worth - Semi-Sweet Mead.
Bronze
  • Fritz Schanz of Denton County Homebrewers Guild, Aubrey - Specialty Beer.

Taproom trips
  • This year, destinations visited in hopes of enjoying brews with a view included Broken Compass Brewing Co. of Breckenridge (the outlet outside of town) and Outer Range Brewing Co. of Frisco. Both delivered on liquids and the lookout point, especially Outer Range with its upstairs patio. The two spots are eight miles apart, with other breweries around if you're looking to make a day of it up in the mountains. Also highly recommended - a lunch of exotic links at Ein Prosit Fine Beer & Sausages in Downtown Frisco.
Tasty beers pair well with mountain views at Outer Range Brewing Co. of Frisco
and Broken Compass Brewing Co. of Breckenridge (© Brian Brown/Beer in Big D).
  • In recent times, a number of Denver-area breweries have expanded their reach by opening supplemental sites out in the suburbs. One is Prost Brewing Co., now serving its brand of traditional German beer in Denver (the original), Fort Collins, Highlands Ranch and Northglenn. The new HQ in Northglenn is, in a word...huge. The facility combines a 10,000 square foot taproom, with a 60,000 square foot production space, an outdoor biergarten, full kitchen and more. Again...huge.

Prost now operates four locations, including the above HQ in Northglenn, Colorado (© Brian Brown/Beer in Big D).




Wednesday, September 27, 2023

On the 2023 GABF and a trip 20 years past

Photo © Brewers Association.

This year marks the 20th anniversary of the first time I attended the Great American Beer Festival (GABF), the brewing industry's premier event put on by the Brewers Association. I walked the hall strictly as a consumer then, and it would be seven years before I returned to cover the event as a media attendee.

Looking back, things were certainly different in 2003.The event hadn't grown to the level it would get to a few years ago, but it still felt big to a first-time attendee. Naturally, the brewery roster wasn't nearly the same, and who knows how many firms from those days have come and gone. Beyond that, there were more brewers, owners and beer celebrities in attendance, volunteers were happy to spill a bit more beer into your sample glass, and you couldn't help but walk out with a bag full of brewery swag.

Of course, GABF attendance and participation numbers would eventually peak right before Covid struck. But now, the festival has scaled back, thanks in part to economics and the after-effects of the pandemic. Breweries are still entering the competition, but fewer are choosing to make the trip to pour their products for festgoers.

For some, pouring at GABF simply doesn't move the meter in terms of attracting more everyday customers. If you distribute out-of-state (especially to Colorado), there's potential to expand your reach, but for hyper-local breweries, an appearance at GABF probably isn't a priority.

As for breweries from North Texas, only six were accounted for on the festival floor - 903 Brewers of Sherman, Bankhead Brewing Co. of Rowlett, False Idol Brewing of North Richland Hills, Martin House Brewing Co. of Fort Worth, Siren Rock Brewing Co. of Rockwall and Twin Peaks Brewing Co. of Irving. And yes, a couple of those - 903 and False Idol - do sell their products in Colorado.

Something else you wouldn't have encountered in 2003 was a beer like the one I began the festival with in 2023 - Cream Cheese Rangoon Gose (a gose with cream cheese, wonton wrappers and sweet & sour sauce) from Weldwerks Brewing of Colorado. In terms of non-standard ingredients, the most you could have hoped for in 2003 was maybe a simple fruit or nut addition, though a jalapeño lager was among the medal winners.

There were plenty of IPAs in 2003, as always, but a wider spectrum of style choices was available for sampling at the time. More recently, there's been a scarcity of Baltic porters, barleywines, classic Belgians (dubbel, tripel, quad, witbier, Flanders), and certain German styles (hefeweizen, schwarzbier, Vienna lager), just to list some things I typically seek out.

If there was a trend to identify in 2023, it might be the proliferation of light lagers. In fact, as you'll see later, "Light Lager" was a popular entry among style categories this year. And to be clear, there's nothing wrong with a well-made craft light lager...but for me, I generally prefer beers with a little more strength, as evidenced by this list of favored festival pours:

  • 2012 Angel's Share (barrel-aged strong ale) from The Lost Abbey of California.
  • Arcane Rituals (barrel-aged English barleywine) and Fundamental Observation (imperial vanilla stout) from Bottle Logic Brewing of California.
  • Nevermore Black Barleywine (barrel-aged with cocoa beans and smoked figs) from Ex Novo Brewing Co. of New Mexico.
  • Comshaw Roggenbock from Deep Draft Brewing of Washington.
  • Dusk 'Til Dawn (imperial coffee porter) from Pizza Port Brewing Co. of California.
  • In the Darkness Below (oyster stout with purple dulse kelp, squid ink and black Hawaiian sea salt) from Dogfish Head Craft Brewery of Delaware.
  • Let it Loose (wheated bourbon barrel-aged imperial stout) from Firestone Walker Brewing Co. of California and Side Project Brewing of Missouri.

So, are things better or worse than they were in 2003? I'd say it depends on your preferences. There are more breweries, but lately it seems there are fewer style options available to drink on a daily basis. Who knows, maybe the industry is just going through a (haze) phase, and we'll eventually circle back around to more style diversity. Let's just hope it doesn't take 20 years!

With that, a summary of this year's competition is provided below, along with my annual recap of area taproom excursions.

Cheers! 


Competition results

Statistics for this year's competition show 9,298 beers were judged based on entries sent in by 2033 breweries from all 50 U.S. states, Washington D.C. and Puerto Rico. From these submissions, judges awarded a total of 303 medals across 101 style categories.

As has become the norm, IPAs represented the two most-entered categories, with "Juicy or Hazy India Pale Ale" leading the way, followed by "West Coast-Style India Pale Ale," a newly named category for 2023. In third position, though, was "Light Lager," which overtook "German-Style Pilsener," last year's number three ranked style.

Three medals went to North Texas breweries this time around, with two going to Bankhead Brewing Co. of Rowlett and one to Windmills Brewery of The Colony.

Both Bankhead and Windmills have placed at GABF in the past, making them two of only eight active breweries to medal multiple times since 2012. Plus, Windmills has now won medals in back-to-back years, an impressive result considering the brewpub has only been open since early 2021.

Gold: Bankhead Brewing Co. for Hootenanny - Bock.
Silver: Windmills for Black Market Liver - Wood- and Barrel-Aged Strong Stout.
Bronze: Bankhead Brewing Co. for Hoofer's Hef - South German-Style Hefeweizen.

Representatives of Bankhead Brewing Co. of Rowlett take the stage to accept
one of two medals won by the brewpub at this year's event (Photo © Brewers Association).

Source: Individual research.

Source: Individual research.

Taproom trips

  • Having visited most breweries in and around Downtown Denver over the years, I've recently made a point to explore a bit more out in the area's suburbs. This year, I stopped off in Castle Rock, based on the promise of a cluster of breweries in the city's downtown district. Had my stay been longer, I probably would have spent more time at Iron Mule Brewery, if for no other reason than to enjoy additional pours of the brewery's Mule Skinner Baltic Porter and Little Hoppy Mule Black IPA.

    The beertender at Iron Mule even convinced me to abandon the downtown cluster for 105 West Brewing Co. in another part of town. There I was met with a taplist of over 25 house beers that included standouts Wee Fella, a barrel-aged Scottish wee heavy, and Deez Nuts, a hazelnut and peanut butter ale.
Craft beer destinations in Castle Rock, Colorado, include Iron Mule Brewery and 105 West Brewing Co. (Photos © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D). 

  • Further out, the continuing quest for brews with a view led me to a pair of mountain ski towns. Outdoor ambiance was achieved at Vicious Cycle Brewing in Fraser, but you also can't go wrong with a stop at Hideaway Park Brewery in Winter Park. During my visit to Hideaway Park, I paired their super crushable More Smiles Per Mile Dry-Hopped Cream Ale with a Wild Boar Bratwurst from Fraser Valley Hot Dog in the same building.
Right: Training Wheels Apricot Wheat and Oktoberfest center a flight at Hideaway Park Brewery in Winer Park, Colorado.
Left: Mountain views enhance the experience at Vicious Cycle Brewing in Fraser, Colorado (Photos © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D).

  • Speaking of beer and food, we'll close out this year's GABF trip coverage with a little BBQ aside. Purveyors of Texas BBQ are hit or miss in Colorado, but there's a promising new(ish) brewery/BBQ spot on the east side of Denver called A Bit Twisted Brewpub. I also enjoyed a burnt end bite at Post Oak Barbecue in Denver's Berkeley neighborhood this trip, and it's worth mentioning that Smok at The Source in the RiNo District consistently delivers on its smoked offerings as well.
Options for Texas BBQ in Denver include Brisket Tacos at A Bit Twisted Brewpub and
the Brisket Burnt Ends Sandwich at Post Oak Barbecue (Photos © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D).

Sunday, October 9, 2022

2022 Great American Beer Festival celebrates 40 years of beer

Cheers to 40 years of beer at GABF (Photos © Brewers Association)!

Returning to its normal in-person format after two years of being competition-only, the Great American Beer Festival (GABF) celebrated its 40th anniversary this weekend in Denver, Colorado. The event, which began in 1982 with just 24 breweries in attendance, played host to nearly 500 breweries in 2022.

The latter number was down significantly from pre-Covid times, when roughly 800 breweries were on hand in 2019. Attendance was limited for patrons as well, but even with curbs in place the Thursday night session was the first in recent memory not to sell out.

This resulted in a smaller event on paper, though it didn't feel less crowded considering the festivities took place in a smaller section of the Colorado Convention Center. Lines seemed longer at popular booths - think Dogfish Head, Firestone Walker and Russian River, not to mention the annual gathering of the masses for a microscopic pour of Utopias from the folks at Samuel Adams. 

Lower attendance also extended to local participants, with only four North Texas breweries present and pouring at the festival - 903 Brewers of Sherman, Denton County Brewing Co. of Denton, Peticolas Brewing Co. of Dallas and Twin Peaks Brewing Co. of Irving. While each enjoyed steady traffic, 903 was noticeably busy as it served a variety of slushy beers and sweet stouts to a lengthy and persistent queue.

An expanding presence outside of Texas has helped to raise the visibility of 903, as the brewery now distributes to over ten states in the country (with more to come). Plus, 903 was one of at least two hometown breweries to hold events at Denver accounts this weekend. The other being False Idol Brewing Co. of North Richland Hills, a group that is quietly working to build a larger out-of-state distribution network as well.

Regarding trends, while IPAs remain king, lighter beers seemed more in vogue this year. Given the season, you'd expect to find plenty of märzen and Oktoberfest beers, and there are always pilsners-a-plenty, but to my eyes Mexican-style lagers were also much more in abundance. There certainly didn't seem to be as many stouts (only a handful of which were of the pastry variety), and forget about finding any barleywines - I think I tried every one of the half-dozen or so listed on the MyGABF app. I guess bigger isn't better in the current market environment, though I did find a few gems...

Favorite beers included an Oak Barrel-Aged Flanders Red Ale from Moody Tongue Brewing Co. of Illinois (the ONLY Flanders on the floor), Kelly's Private Stash Barrel-Aged Barley Wine from Third Eye Brewing Co. of Ohio, and Sandstone Whiskey Barrel-Aged Baltic Porter from Well 80 Artisan Brewing of Washington. Oh, and for the obligatory IPAs - Spirit of the West from Westbound & Down Brewing Co. of Colorado, and Polar Bear Toenails from Precarious Beer Project of Virginia (both medal winners in 2022).

As for the competition, local results and a rundown of key numbers can be found below. Following that, I offer up my regular roundup of select taprooms I visited outside the festival.

Cheers! 


Competition results

Judges evaluated 9,904 beers from 2,154 breweries during this year's competition, awarding 300 medals across 177 style categories. Once again, IPA categories garnered the greatest number of entries, with "American Style IPA" taking the lead, followed by "Juicy or Hazy IPA." Rounding out the top five were three German-based styles, those being "German-Style Pilsener," "German Wheat Ale," and "German-Style Maerzen."

Six breweries from North Texas brought home medals, which is the most area wins in a single year since 2015. For those curious, the graphic below shows how the region has fared overall at GABF since the start of the modern craft beer boom.

Source: Individual research.

First time winners in 2022 included 3 Nations Brewing Co. of Carrollton, Edgewise Eight Brewing of Weatherford, Maple Branch Craft Brewery of Fort Worth, and Windmills of The Colony. Among repeat honorees, Community Beer Co. of Dallas landed its sixth GABF medal, while White Rock Alehouse & Brewery of Dallas snagged its second.

Incidentally, the White Rock win is notable in that it occurred in the highly-competitive and second-most entered category, "Juicy or Hazy IPA," where it went up against 374 other hoppy brews.

Gold

  • Windmills for Sonidero - American Amber Lager.

Silver

Bronze


Founders Stuart and Allyssa Maples and crew from Maple Branch Craft Brewery gather to celebrate their win (left), while owner Kevin Carr (right)
offers a thumbs-up after receiving Community Beer Co.'s award at the 2022 Great American Beer Festival (Photos © Brewers Association).

Taproom trips

  • My first brewery visit outside the festival was to what might best be referred to as the church of Colorado Springs craft beer. Local Relic Artisan Ales is part of a cooperative space set up inside a former church, which also houses a restaurant, along with wine and cocktail bars. Creative house beers at Local Relic are poured alongside a curated selection of guest taps - which on this particular day included beers from Jester King Brewery of Austin.
Local Relic's beers are available on tap, or in bottles to go. (Photos © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D).
  • Continuing explorations I began last year with a visit to Cabin Creek Brewing in Georgetown, Colorado, I once again sought out destinations with a bit of outdoor ambiance. Having good beer is one thing, but it certainly doesn't hurt to create a destination where an intangible or two is added to the taproom experience. Breweries like Red Leg Brewing Co. in Colorado Springs, along with Evergreen Brewery and Lariat Lodge Brewing Co. in Evergreen provide just that.
Left-to-right: Red Leg Brewing Co., Lariat Lodge Brewing Co., Evergreen Brewery (Photos © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D).
  • I've yet to visit the original location of Bruz Beers in Midtown Denver, but the company's satellite taproom off Colfax Ave. in Downtown may be my new favorite haunt. Hypeheads should seek their treasures elsewhere, because Belgian-style beers are the specialty here. Dubbel, tripel, quad, grisette, saison, bière de miel...the list goes on.
Belgians big and small are the specialty at Bruz Beers in Denver (Photos © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D).

Thursday, September 16, 2021

Craft beer industry reconvenes for 2021 CBC, GABF awards in Denver

Photos © Brewers Association.

Members of the brewing industry came together for the first time since early 2020 last weekend in Denver, Colorado, for the 38th Annual Craft Brewers Conference (CBC) presented by the Brewers Association.

Normally held in the spring, the gathering was a hybrid event of sorts due to the pandemic, as this year's edition took place around the time of year the Great American Beer Festival (GABF) is typically held. Since that event was cancelled once again, the competition portion of GABF and subsequent awards ceremony took place in conjunction with CBC.

As expected, the pandemic was a topic front and center, especially in relation to its effects on the industry over the past 18 months. Also of great importance, however, was the call for an industry awakening, as countless incidents of racism, sexism, discrimination and harassment have come to light within its ranks.

Below, you'll find a recap of key points raised on these matters during CBC discussions. A rundown of local GABF winners follows, along with notes on taproom (and other) trips made to discover items of interest outside the 2021 event.


State of the Industry

The onset of the COVID-19 pandemic brought about dire predictions as to the fate of small and independent breweries, with some fearing the coming of mass closures. Thankfully, this didn't come to pass, but production numbers did decline in 2020 for the first time since the 1980s. Bart Watson, chief economist for the Brewers Association, cited a reduction in keg beer consumption (i.e., bars being closed due to the pandemic) as a contributing factor.

Data courtesy of the Brewers Association.

As for the annual "Brewery Count" update, there are now 8,848 active breweries in the U.S., which represents an increase of 439 breweries over last year. While this is the smallest year-to-year gain of late, it's still a pleasant surprise considering the alternative.

More surprising is data showing the rate of brewery closings did not accelerate during the pandemic, which raises the question of how breweries are surviving. Watson noted Americans still drink the same amount of beer as before, just at different places. For breweries able to quickly pivot operations to focus on packaging beer to-go, this resulted in "at the brewery" sales numbers remaining relatively strong. Beyond that, he pointed to federal aid programs (for those who were approved for such things), and credited the tenacity and resilience of brewers.

A charge to bring about change

In response to a callout regarding a disturbing number of cases involving racism, sexism, discrimination and harassment occurring in the craft beer industry, initiatives seeking to promote diversity, equity and inclusion were introduced at CBC.

Images courtesy of the Brewers Association.

Attendees had access to a conference roadmap of seminars and workshops, entitled THRIVE, designed to empower "craft brewing community members to build safe, inclusive, and equitable cultures where everyone who makes, sells, and enjoys craft beer can thrive."

Industry groups joined together to create the BRU Coalition, with the "objective to leverage the combined reach of the organizations to drive industry-wide adoption of evidence-based best practices for preventing discrimination, harassment, and violence within the brewing industry." Members include the Brewers Association, Cicerone Certification Program, Master Brewers Association of the Americas, Pink Boots Society, and the American Society of Brewing Chemists.


Two area breweries among GABF medalists

Overall, a total of 9,680 beers from 2,192 breweries were evaluated at this year's GABF, with 290 medals awarded across 97 categories covering 175 different beer styles. And, as per usual, the most-entered categories were associated with IPAs. The largest number of submissions were in the "Juicy or Hazy India Pale Ale" category with 427 entries, followed by "American-Style India Pale Ale" with 404.

Two local breweries were awarded medals, both garnering GABF recognition for the first time. Congratulations are in order for Westlake Brewing Co. of Dallas and Cowtown Brewing Co. of Fort Worth (click here for a full competition summary).

Westlake Brewing Co., Dallas: Gold for Peter Porter in the
Brown Porter category (Photo © Brewers Association).

Cowtown Brewing Co., Fort Worth: Silver for High Brau in the Dortmunder
or German-Style Oktoberfest category (Photo © Brewers Association).

Taproom (and other) trips

  • I generally have a theme in mind when deciding on what breweries to visit while attending events out-of-state. Oftentimes, it's a simple as finding a group of breweries I haven't experienced in proximity to each other. On this occasion, though, I decided to find a brewery with a view. A quick search led me to Cabin Creek Brewing in Georgetown, Colorado, a small-town spot set up on the shores of Georgetown Lake. For best results, grab a flight and head up to the second-floor balcony.
Photo © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D.
  • We'll call this a case of curious consumption. Here at home, when a new brewery opens, the first keg to kick is almost always some kind of IPA. Well, at Smash Face Brewing in Denver, a different story was being told, as the only beer available at this month-old brewery was an IPA. This, after the house lager, pilsner and session beers had all run out.
Photo © Enstrom Toffee & Confectionery.

Friday, October 16, 2020

North Texas breweries nab three medals at 2020 GABF

Image courtesy of the Brewers Association.


In a year that has been anything but ordinary, the persistence of the pandemic forced the Brewers Association to move the 2020 Great American Beer Festival awards ceremony to a virtual format for the first time in its history. Once the pivot was made, 8,806 beers from 1,720 breweries were judged across 91 different categories. From those entries, 272 medals were awarded to 240 breweries, with a trio of North Texas brewers landing among the winners.

Surveying the locals, it's worth noting Armadillo Ale Works has achieved a rare double with the beer Honey Please. The brewery's mesquite bean blonde ale is the second North Texas beer to win a gold medal at both the Great American Beer Festival and World Beer Cup. In other words, Honey Please has now been recognized as the best honey beer in America, and also the world.

As for the area's other honorees, Panther Island Brewing upgraded its 2015 GABF silver for Allergeez with gold in 2020, while White Rock Alehouse & Brewery brought home its first ever GABF medal for White Rocktoberfest.


Armadillo Ale Works, Denton
  • Gold for Honey Please in the Honey Beer category.
Panther Island Brewing Co., Fort Worth
  • Gold for Allergeez in the Herb and Spice Beer category.
White Rock Alehouse & Brewery, Dallas
  • Silver for White Rocktoberfest in the German-Style Maerzen category.

Cheers and congratulations to all!

Monday, October 7, 2019

Beer's big day: Recapping the 2019 Great American Beer Festival

(Photo: © Brewers Association).

If there's one thing to be said with certainty regarding the 2019 Great American Beer Festival (GABF), it's that the Denver, Colorado-based event just keeps getting bigger. That applies not only to the competition, but also to the amount of area attendees must traverse in order to seek out the most highly sought-after samples on the festival floor.

On the latter point, the festival has grown to encompass nearly 600,000 square feet of convention center space. That's roughly equivalent to 10 football fields, which is great if you're looking to up your step count while imbibing on beers from around the country.

At the same time, I imagine it could be a little overwhelming to someone embarking on GABF for the first time. Luckily, there were plenty of things to see and do if you needed to take a break from your tasting trek. Among them, the History of Craft Beer Exhibit was new for 2019, while the Jameson Caskmates Barrel-Aged Beer Garden was a holdover from last year. In addition, Sierra Nevada trucked in its original brewhouse, with the equipment proving to be a popular display among patrons.

Sierra Nevada's original brewhouse was a 10-barrel system (Photo: © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D).

Shifting the focus to the competition, the 2019 edition was the largest to date, with 9,497 beers from 2,295 breweries evaluated across 107 categories. From within those entries, two North Texas breweries were awarded medals.
  • Community Beer Co., Dallas: Gold for Texas Lager in the Session Beer category.
  • Bitter Sisters Brewery, Addison: Bronze for Sisters Quad in the Belgian-style Dark Strong or Belgian-Style Quadrupel category.
For Community, the company earned its fifth overall GABF medal this year, while it was the first for Bitter Sisters. It's perhaps notable that both have also been recognized previously at the World Beer Cup.

Now, some will point out that this is the lowest award total for our region since 2013. Yet, while that might present itself as an unexpected (and/or concerning) drop-off compared to recent times, it's probably just a result of increased competition from an ever-growing field of competing breweries.

Representatives from Community Beer Co. of Dallas celebrate their gold medal with
Charlie Papazian, founder of the Great American Beer Festival (Photo: © Brewers Association).

As for more news and notes from the festival and beyond, coverage on further items of interest is provided below.

Cheers!

Community shines as my first, best 'mate'

Speaking of Community, one of the more popular local releases of late has been the company's Irish Coffee Legion. The result of a partnership with Jameson Distillery, the beer was poured at GABF inside the aforementioned Jameson Caskmates Barrel-Aged Beer Garden. Being a fan of Irish Coffee Legion (having purchased multiple four-packs here at home), I thought it would be interesting to compare/contrast with some of the other collaborations. The result? After trying over a half-dozen others, I walked out of the beer garden thinking Community's was the best one.

Altstadt garners two golds ahead of North Texas distro

Altstadt Brewery of Fredericksburg arrived at its first GABF in 2019 and promptly won two gold medals - one for Altstadt Lager and another for Altstadt Kölsch. How does this apply to North Texas? Well, the company has signed on with Andrews Distributing for the delivery of its products to the Dallas-Fort Worth market. Kegs are said to be rolling out first, with packaged products to follow later.

S'mores to come from Great Divide's Yeti clan

New release announcements ahead of GABF seem to be few and far between these days, but one I got a heads up on was S'mores Yeti from Great Divide Brewing Co. of Denver. Brewed with chocolate, marshmallow and spices, the beer is reminiscent of Birthday Sasquatch (10.3% ABV) from 903 Brewers in Sherman, though S'mores Yeti (9.5% ABV) is a bit lighter in strength and less intense. Set to be available from now until December, look for S'mores Yeti to be sold in 19.2-ounce cans.

Taproom trips

By now, it's become tradition for me to end my GABF recap with a rundown of taproom visits outside the festival. This time around, I managed to visit a dozen breweries in and around Denver, including some down around Colorado Springs. I won't try to cover them all, but here are some thoughts on a few favorites.

Left-to-right: Renegade Brewing, Spangalang Brewery, Black Project Spontaneous
& Wild Ales, Manitou Brewing Co. (Photos: © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D).
  • Renegade Brewing, Denver: I kicked-off my GABF journey this year at this spot in Denver's Santa Fe Arts District. Appropriately enough, my first beer at a brewery that bills its products as "Offensively Delicious" was a barleywine called Barrel-Aged Bedwetter.
  • Spangalang Brewery, Denver: A bit off the beaten path in Denver's Historic Five Points neighborhood, Spangalang had the best vibe among those I visited. Of course, that may be because of a soundtrack filled with the sounds of jazz greats like Miles Davis, John Coltrane and more. Though, that should have been expected given Spangalang refers to a jazz cymbal rhythm created by drummer Kenny Clarke in the 1940s.
  • Black Project Spontaneous & Wild Ales, Denver: Although set up in a revamped building downtown, the brewery's dark rooms housing a multitude of barrels make it seem like you're drinking beer in a cave-aging environment. Interesting and unusual offerings abound, with my choice being one called Experimental #1, a spontaneously fermented gose with hickory-smoked salt, rosemary and coriander.
  • Manitou Brewing Co., Manitou Springs: Should you find yourself south of Denver, you'd do well to end up at Manitou Brewing Co. in Historic Manitou Springs. It's a small place nestled into downtown, but the brewpub is churning out great food to go along with a variety of full-flavored beer styles.



For more on the 2019 GABF and the historical performance of breweries from North Texas, click the links below:

Tuesday, September 25, 2018

North Texas notches four medals: That and more from the 2018 GABF

Thursday night at the Great American Beer Festival (Photo © 2018 Brewers Association).

This year, the official coming of fall brought with it the conclusion of the 2018 Great American Beer Festival (GABF). Held, as always, at the Colorado Convention Center in Denver, the competition portion of the program involved the evaluation of over 8500 beers spread across 102 different categories. In other words, many beers were consumed and many medals were awarded (306 to be exact) at this annual celebration of great American beer.

A total of 18 medals found their way into the hands of brewers from the Lone Star State, with four of those going to breweries from North Texas. Locals landing on the winners list were 903 Brewers, Bankhead Brewing Co., Oak Highlands Brewery and Rahr & Sons Brewing Co. Within that group, Bankhead and Oak Highlands snagged GABF medals for the first time, while 903 Brewers scored its second overall prize. And Rahr & Sons? That brewery now has six notches on its GABF belt, with the brewery's seasonal Oktoberfest receiving accolades for the third time in four years (priors: 2015 - gold, 2017 - silver).


903 Brewers, Sherman: Bronze for Kilt Switch in the
Scotch Ale category (Photo © 2018 Brewers Association).


Bankhead Brewing Co., Rowlett: Silver for Hoofer's Hef in the
South German-Style Hefeweizen category (Photo © 2018 Brewers Association).


Oak Highlands Brewery, Dallas: Bronze for Oktoberfest in the
German-Style Maerzen category (Photo © 2018 Brewers Association).


Rahr & Sons Brewing Co., Fort Worth: Gold for Oktoberfest in the
German-Style Maerzen category (Photo © 2018 Brewers Association).


As for other notable topics from this year's event and beyond, an additional note or two on the competition is provided below, along with my usual roundup of visits to breweries in and around the Denver area.

Cheers!



Haze craze not just a phase

Much has been made of the seemingly meteoric rise in popularity of hazy and/or juicy IPAs, and the subject was front and center at the beginning of this year's awards ceremony. Competition Director, Chris Swersey, opened the show with the previously-revealed news that "Juicy or India Pale Ale" was the most-entered category of the competition, having knocked "American-Style India Pale Ale" from the top spot for the first time since 2002. This, Swersey suggested, was proof positive that haze isn't just a phase, and that perhaps its time for detractors to stop dissing the style.

Not a banner day for Blue Ribbon and its ilk

As far as I can tell, no "big" beers won a medal for the first time ever. There was no Miller, no Coors (or MillerCoors), no Anheuser Busch, and no Pabst to be found among winners in the Light Lager/Malt Liquor or Cream Ale categories. Pabst Blue Ribbon won medals in 2016 and 2017 for "American-Style Lager or Malt Liquor," but this year's honorees were all independent American brewers. One was even unsung, literally, as Unsung Brewing Co. of Tustin, Ca., nabbed a bronze for a lager called Lumino.

The ABGB is a shining star in Austin

If you're like me, and have yet to check out Austin Beer Garden Brewing Co., it might be time to put "The ABGB" at the top of your to-visit list. The Austin brewpub and its crew have now been named "Large Brewpub and Large Brewpub Brewer of the Year" for the third year in a row, an accomplishment that has to be among the most impressive feats ever achieved by a Texas-based brewing operation.

Taproom Trips

Left: Enjoy views of Jefferson Park while sipping on brews at Briar Common.
Right: Steps away from Mile High Stadium, Little Machine is the perfect place for a pregame pint.
(Photos: © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D).
Just north of Mile High Stadium, the Jefferson Park neighborhood in Denver is home to Briar Common Eatery + Brewery and Little Machine Beer. Briar Common is a brewpub with ten beers on tap and a full kitchen serving lunch and dinner, while Little Machine is a robot-themed brewery with great variety that sits little more than a stone's throw from the stadium parking lot.

Left: WeldWerks' taproom boasts over 30 taps, with popular styles balanced by the occasional classic.
Right: Custom cars and craft beer combine to create virtual man cave at Mash Lab Brewing.
(Photos: © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D).
Many make the pilgrimage to WeldWerks Brewing in Greeley for its array of hazy IPAs,  sour beers and flavorful stouts. And, while I would encourage fans of those types of beers to make the trip, I might also suggest a stop at Mash Lab Brewing in nearby Windsor. The selection is straightforward, but the beer is good and you can't beat the atmosphere, considering Mash Lab shares space with a nationally-recognized hot rod shop. Only a glass wall separates the two businesses, which means you can enjoy a beer while ogling over custom cars being crafted next door.

Left: Besides being a shrine to diminutive spirits, The Grateful Gnome is a place for beer and house-made sandwiches.
Right: Enter the alley behind Grateful Gnome to find the entrance to De Steeg / Blind Faith Brewing.
(Photos: © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D).
I tend to seek out brewery clusters when traveling, and the Berkeley neighborhood in northwest Denver is a section of town that offers exactly that. Three brewing operations representing four different brands inhabit the area, with the total walking distance between them being roughly a block.

The name tells the story at The Grateful Gnome Sandwich Shoppe & Brewery, a spot which exists on the same alley as the dual-branded operation, De Steeg/Blind Faith Brewing. Diversity of style is what you'll find at the Gnome and De Steeg, while Blind Faith focuses on beers brewed in the Belgian monastic tradition.

Just down the way, food options are also in play at Call to Arms Brewing Co. (not pictured), thanks to Mas Kaos Pizzeria + Taqueria being located in the same building. As for the brewery's taproom, it's a vibrant and inviting space reminiscent of an old English pub.

Left: Beer and books are brought together at Fiction Beer Company.
Right: Dry Dock - North Dock is the brewery/taproom closest to Denver International Airport.
(Photos: © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D).
Literary references are omnipresent at Fiction Beer Co., where bound volumes surround patrons seated in the taproom. Offerings of "liquid literature" are broken down by genre on the brewery's menu, with beers falling into the categories of Classics, Adventure and Fantasy.

Located one exit east of the entrance to Denver International Aiprort, Dry Dock Brewing Co. - North Dock is the place to go for one last beer before catching a flight back home. North Dock is a secondary production facility for the Aurora-based company, with a bit of contract brewing done in house as well.



For more on the 2018 GABF and the historical performance of breweries from North Texas, click the links below: