A rare breed indeed, Rahr & Sons turns 20

Image credit: Rahr & Sons Brewing Co.

This year, Rahr & Sons Brewing Co. of Fort Worth celebrates 20 years in business since being founded in 2004. It's no small feat, considering breweries in North Texas have typically only stayed in business for 3-4 years over the course of the past two decades.

In fact, staying power in this market has been a rarity. Just over 10% of brewing operations to open here since 2004 have made it to even 10 years. And 20? Eight have hit the 20-year mark in the history of North Texas, the local industry dating back to 1855. Two happened before Prohibition, after which the list includes MillerCoors, Big Buck Brewery & Steakhouse (later Uncle Buck's), Humperdinks Restaurant & Brewery (three locations), and now Rahr & Sons.

Today, amongst those to debut in the craft era, not only is Rahr & Sons the oldest brewery in North Texas, it's also the 10th oldest physical brewing operation in the entire state (Rahr & Sons ranks 11th as a company, but the 10-spot is occupied by an entity whose products were contract brewed for much of its early existence).

As for how many have come and gone during Rahr & Sons' reign, over 150 breweries have opened since 2004 in North Texas, with 70 of those eventually closing.

So, how did the brewery reach this milestone? The path to 20 didn't come without pitfalls, especially through the time period prior to when the modern craft beer boom took off locally in late 2011. Up to that point, Rahr & Sons persevered despite early financial pressures, head brewer turnover (three in year one, six over the first seven years), temporary management by an equity partner, and ultimately the roof collapse of February 12, 2010, that inspired the beer, Snowmaggedon.

Since then, Rahr & Sons has faced many of the same challenges the industry has as a whole: efforts to overcome and overturn anti-competitive laws, increased competition, COVID, changing consumer preferences and more. Of course, nothing can compare to founder Fritz Rahr's most recent fight against cancer.

Thankfully, the brewery's namesake is back at the helm of the company he worked so hard to keep afloat, which for time in 2005 meant manning the brew kettle as the lone full-time employee. The "Sons" have grown up and are on board these days too, fulfilling the original vision behind the brewery's name.

Looking back, it was interesting to find an article entitled "Fritz Rahr Quit Railroads to Open a Fort Worth Microbrewery," where Fritz told the Fort Worth Star Telegram  he hoped to one day be known as the "Shiner of Fort Worth." A moment later, he altered the sentiment to say "Actually, the Rahr of Fort Worth. How about that?"

The story ran 20 years and two months ago. How about that, indeed.

Cheers and congrats to Rahr & Sons!

Barley & Board closing brewpub in Denton

Image credit: Barley & Board.

A longtime Denton brewpub is set to close its doors after the first of the year.

Barley & Board, developed by Radical Hospitality Group, debuted on the Downtown Denton Square in August 2015. The company went on to open a second restaurant in The Colony during the summer of 2021, but that locale closed as well just last month.

As the city's first gastropub, elevated food offerings were naturally a focus. But, on the topic of in-house brewing operations, Barley & Board might best be remembered for its Home Brewers League, a program where local homebrewers were invited to collaborate on the production of a commercial batch. At least two Denton-based brewery owners are League alums - Brian "Toast" Tiensvold of Toasty Bros. and Michael Velasco of Black Fox Brewing Co.

According to a social media post, Barley & Board's closure will take effect on Monday, January 6, after a decision was made not to renew the lease on the building at 101 W. Oak St.

Uptown Rail now slinging beers in Sanger

Image © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D.

The City of Sanger now has a craft beer destination all its own, as Uptown Rail Brewery is open and operating in the town's historic downtown district at 204 Bolivar St.

Todd and Vanessa Benson form the husband-and-wife team behind Uptown Rail, which occupies a 7,500 square foot spot dating back to 1903. Within these confines, the couple has established a bright, open and inviting brewery and taproom outfitted with pool tables, widescreen TVs, and a stage for live music.

Adjacent to the taproom build-out is an additional space dedicated to Uptown Rail's on-site kitchen. Here, they prepare a menu of appetizers (including wings), fresh salads, and brick oven pizzas. Order full pies with either a thin or hand-tossed crust, or choose a cheese or classic pepperoni slice for snacking.

On what there is to wash things down with, Uptown Rail pours beer from a 36-handle tapwall. House beers currently occupy a dozen taps, with those recipes brewed on a small-batch system designed by SmartBrew. Base styles consist of IPAs, pilsners, stouts and wheat beers, with numerous variants available to appeal to different tastes (for example: hazy IPAs, coffee stouts, and fruited wheats).

Remaining draft offerings are mix of guest beers from other local breweries, along with a few macros, ciders and seltzers. Then for other beverage options, there's also soda, wine, liquor, "big beer" longnecks, and a range of non-alcoholic beers in both bottles and cans.

As for Uptown Rail's approach, it derives directly from the inspiration behind the brewery's name and how railroads have always connected people and communities. Along those lines, the Bensons hope to connect locals by providing a place where they can gather to "Sip, Savor and Socialize" in a family-friendly environment.

Uptown Rail Brewery welcomes patrons seven days a week, with service starting at 11:30 a.m. on weekdays, and 11:00 a.m. during the weekend.

On a trip to the 2024 Texas Craft Brewers Festival

Image: © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D. Logo: Texas Craft Brewers Guild.

Sitting down to pen some perspectives after my first ever trip to the Texas Craft Brewers Festival (TCBF) in Austin, put on by the Texas Craft Brewers Guild, I was curious to see how many of these events I've missed out on over the years.

Turns out, there have been a lot. History suggests the TCBF has existed in one form or another since 2003 - and that doesn't account for a series of events of the same name that took place in the mid-1990s. Yet, somehow, I've never managed to make it to a single occurrence.

Part of it was probably a proximity thing, though it's a pretty quick drive from Dallas down to the capitol city of Texas. Then there's always a question of weather, considering the event is outside at Fiesta Gardens on Lady Bird Lake, an offshoot of the Colorado River.

Regarding that, while attendees and brewery reps alike raved about the mid-November scheduling this year, the TCBF has usually been held in the early-to-mid fall timeframe. Of course, pushing into November makes the event more likely to hit beyond the "fake fall" and "second summer" seasons in Texas. This past weekend, Austin temperatures were comfortable in the mid-80s with a light breeze keeping things cool, especially for those seeking a respite under shade trees or the covered pavilion on site.

As for event details, naturally the TCBF is all about celebrating the state's small and independent brewers, but at the same time, it's also all about beer. Even as the market environment has pushed industry players and other festival organizers to pivot and offer a wider range of beverage options to patrons, beer was the soul sipping attraction at the 2024 TCBF.

In fact, over 200 beers were poured at this year's gathering, these the products of roughly 80 Texas breweries. Well over 50 of those breweries hailed from Central Texas, with 10 from North Texas, close to a dozen from in-and-around Houston, and a half-dozen or so from San Antonio and points south.

Not surprisingly, IPAs and lagers (pilsners especially) led the way style-wise, with stouts and sour beer numbers noticeable as well. Classic styles weren't really in abundance, but anyone seeking a more traditional pour could take solace in the available Emotional Support Beverage, a cleverly-named ESB from Galveston Bay Brewing of Clear Lake Shores.

The most popular attractions, though, were limited releases tapping periodically throughout the day, and this is where most barrel-aged beers could be found. One favorite from this group was a BA Belgian Quad from Spindletap Brewery of Houston. The list of limited beers also included three selections from North Texas, one of which can currently be had here at home.

• Odd Muse Brewing Co. of North Richland Hills: Guardians of the Harvest, an imperial coffee stout brewed with coffee from Oak Cliff Coffee Roasters, pumpkin spice and caramel.
• Three Wide Brewing Co. of Fort Worth: Caramel Dark Narrative, a caramel cream imperial stout.
• Vector Brewing of Dallas: Procession, a pear brandy barrel-aged saison with pear, lemon, rosemary and thyme (available on tap and in 500mL bottles).
  

On the topic of festival favorites, having had most of the beers from North Texas, my list of preferred pours highlights a number of breweries I wasn't previously familiar with - one exception being Saint Arnold Brewing Co. of Houston, who landed on the list with two cellar releases.

And, I suppose that's the ultimate message here. When you go to a beer festival locally, you're generally looking to discover new breweries close to home. Attend the Texas Craft Brewers Festival, and you'll expand your beer horizons even further as you discover new tastes and learn about different brands from across the Lone Star State. Then maybe, you'll consider visiting these breweries next time you're in the neighborhood.

• Acopon Brewing Co. of Dripping Springs: Mina, a dry-hopped American pale ale.
• Bear King Brewing Co. of Marble Falls: Stigini, a white stout with vanilla and cacao.
• The Brewtorium of Austin: Confabulator, a German doppelbock.
• Fitzhugh Brewing of Dripping Springs: South African Rooibos, a brown ale with native South African tea.
• Grain Theory Brewery of Abilene: Tears of Osiris II, a Belgian pentabier.
• Great Heights Brewing Co. of Houston: The Drip, a coffee stout conditioned on Central American coffee beans.
• Saint Arnold Brewing Co. of Houston: 2013 Pumpkinator Imperial Pumpkin Ale, 2020 Russian Imperial Stout.
• Vista Brewing of Driftwood: Dark Skies, a black pilsner.

Cheers!