Friday, December 27, 2024

2024 Year in review: North Texas industry perseveres despite down year

All logos and graphics the property of their respective owners. Image: Brian Brown/Beer in Big D.

The intro to this year's annual review piece is probably going to sound a little bit like a broken record - times are tough and growth is stagnant, with brewery owners doing any and everything they can to stay afloat.

Ask a local owner how things are going, and you get responses like "we're just barely breaking even," or "we've literally never made a profit." That, or there's a note of exasperation with a shake of the head and a shrug, followed by "I'm running a craft brewery." Even worse, "Man, every week, we're just trying to make it to the next Monday."

These are actual conversations had in the last 12 months. Yet, the industry continues to persevere in the face of ongoing difficulties. The bottom still hasn't fallen out despite accelerated closures, but that's only because new openings have been just enough to keep things in balance since 2021.

Whether or not that continues will be something to watch. For 2024, closings outnumbered openings for the second time in three years. That, and there were only four openings - the fewest since 2011, the origin point of the modern craft beer boom locally. And while there are more than a dozen new projects in the works, the development cycle has been a lengthy one for more than a few, leading to uncertainty as to when they'll actually open.

Of course, breweries aren't the only entities struggling, as evidenced by double-digit closures of craft beer-centric bars and growler shops across D-FW in 2024 (see a list provided later in the article). Those calling it quits are citing many of the same reasons behind brewery closures - rising costs, rising rents, and other factors being at the forefront of decisions to fold.

So, how best to navigate the market going forward? In its own 2024 Year in Beer post, the Brewers Association points to things like brand differentiation, a renewed focus on successful product lines (after years of pushing diversification), and being mindful of the overall customer experience.

Even then, uncertainties abound, which leads to the "adapt or die" refrain all over again, but brewery owners would probably be the first to tell you they've been pivoting almost daily since before the pandemic.

As for consumers, the message should be clear - support your local bars and breweries today, so you're not lamenting their loss tomorrow.

Now, more on the 2024 year in beer...

The Business of Beer - Local Dealings

Something else the Brewers Association mentions is the increasing likelihood of consolidations and strategic alliances. Locally, we've had breweries make deals to tap into excess capacity at other locales, but a full-on merger like that of three Houston breweries over the summer hasn't come to pass here.

What we have seen, though, is how breweries can get passed around like trading cards when it comes to large-scale buyouts. Last year, the owners of Four Corners Brewing Co. regained control of their Dallas-based brewery after being acquired by Constellation Brands in 2018. Unfortunately, a different fate has befallen the area's two other acquisition targets.

Deep Ellum Brewing Co. of Dallas, which joined CANarchy in 2018, was part of a package sold to Monster Energy in early 2022. Then, in May of this year, Monster ceased local operations in favor of moving production to a facility out of state.

Then, there's the case of Revolver Brewing of Granbury. After a majority interest in the brewery was sold to MillerCoors in 2016, the big beer boys passed the brewery on to Tilray Brands in September. Tilray, however, seems to have its sights set on the THC-infused beverage space, which leaves Revolver's future in doubt.

Moving on to other dealings, even in a tough market there were a number of expansions in 2024. 

From the roster of North Texas brewing operations, Tupps Brewery completed its move to a larger facility in Downtown McKinney in February, while Union Bear Brewing Co. of Plano finalized an expansion with a July opening of its new Denton taproom, where production had begun late in 2023.

Among local retailers expanding their reach, Civil Pour Coffee & Beer raised a new "Ruckus" in Richardson and The Old Monk established a new presence in Oak Cliff.

Out-of-state retail companies made moves as well, with The Brass Tap of Florida upping its area franchise count to 13 with openings in Euless and McKinney, Hoppin' of North Carolina introducing its self-pour taproom concept to Fort Worth and Grapevine, and Voodoo Brewing Co. of Pennsylvania adding spots in Plano and Fort Worth (the latter closed after only a few months).

The area's one notable contraction came to light just recently, as Fort Brewery & Pizza is closing its restaurant and taproom in Fort Worth to focus on production and distribution only.

What's in store for 2025 (or later)? Union Bear is opening a restaurant (sans brewing operations) in McKinney, Rollertown Beerworks of Celina has begun work on their new headquarters in Frisco, 903 Brewers of Sherman has taken out a lease on a satellite spot in Denison, Parker County Brewing Co. is moving across I-30 to a larger locale in Willow Park, Edgewise Eight Brewing has a new spot coming soon in Weatherford, and Bosque River Taphouse has a permanent location in the works for Stephenville.

There are also rumblings of an expansion or a second location being considered by Manhattan Project Beer Co. of Dallas. This, after consecutive years of having the largest reported year-to-year gain in raw barrels produced in North Texas.

Finally, Voodoo Brewing Co. looks to continue its occupation of North Texas with taprooms in Prosper and Lewisville.

The Business of Beer - Statewide Statistics 

According to 2023 economic updates provided by the Brewers Association, Texas produced nearly 1.52 million barrels of beer last year (up from 1.3 million), the state continuing to rank fourth in production nationally. On total brewery count compared to 2022, Texas had 445 breweries (up from 407), with 2.1 breweries per capita (up from 1.9) - ranking 48th nationally (down a notch from 47th).

For 2024, preliminary numbers based on personal tracking show there were only around 30 new brewery openings across Texas (down from 60+ in 2023), with 35 or more closures (down slightly from 39 in 2023).

Numbers for total economic impact in 2023 were up as well, Texas ranking third nationally (steady) while contributing over $5.25 billon to the economy (up from 4.55 billion). Then, with regards to employment, statistics show 28,543 full-time equivalent workers were employed by the state's brewing industry during 2023 (up from 27,000), with the average wage being $49,312 (up from $47,237).

Image/Data: Brewers Association.

Comings and Goings

The overall brewery count in North Texas didn't see significant movement up or down for the third year in a row, with four openings and seven closings and/or consolidations taking place in 2024.

A couple of notes...

Franconia Brewing Co. of McKinney is included in the list of permanent closures for 2024. Social media posts suggest plans to move the business after shuttering the McKinney site in February, but the company filed for bankruptcy in October.

Also, one retroactive change involves adding Brew Aleworks of Granbury to the closure count for 2023. The company closed its taproom and restaurant in November 2023 to focus solely on production and distribution. This involved entering into a joint proprietorship with Revolver Brewing of Granbury, but as of now a related TABC application has not been approved.

With that, there are now 88 active brewing operations in North Texas after taking into account the already announced 2025 closure of Barley & Board in Denton. Adding side projects and subtracting licenses for breweries with multiple locations, 85 different brands of local beer are available in the market.

On the horizon: Acre Distilling of Fort Worth (adding brewing operations), Balanced Rock Brewing of The Colony, Bearded Ax Brewery of Midlothian, East Dallas Brewing Co. of Dallas, La Hermana Cerveceria at Far-Out Dallas (formerly Wriggly Tin), Forney Brewing Co. of Forney, Landon Winery of Gainesville (by way of Greenville production space), Palo Pinto Brewing Co. of Strawn, Smittox Brewing Co. of Dallas, Toasty Bros. of Denton (permanent location), Village Creek Brewing Co. of Rendon...and others.

Openings:

New Locations (not counted as a new opening):

New Taprooms (not counted as a brewery opening):

Temporary Closures:

Permanent Closures:

Consolidations:

Taproom Closures (not counted as a brewery closure).



Source: Individual research.
The Year in Beer 
  • Preferred pours of 2024 (new-to-market, or newly-discovered beers some blogger particularly enjoyed):

    Armor Wheat Wine
    Celestial Stare at the Sun Japanese Black Rice Lager
    False Idol Knifehead Bourbon Barrel-Aged Imperial Stout
    Ivanhoe Dammit Janet English Brown Ale
    Jaquval Rabble Rabble Coffee Stout
    Maple Branch Prince's Gate Smoked Amber Kellerbier
    Martin House Day Ruiner Whiskey Barrel-Aged Blonde Barleywine
    Oak Cliff Ravenator Doppelbock
    Odd Muse The Hermit Barrel-Aged American Barleywine
    On Rotation Orchard Belgian Dark Strong Ale with Plum & Apple
    Rollertown Revolution Czech Dark Lager
    Soul Fire Cleburne's Goatman Oatmeal Stout
    Tupps Red Riot Rye IPA
    Turning Point Under the Big Top Apple Brandy Barrel-Aged Salted Caramel Imperial Stout
    Union Bear New Zealand Pilsner
    Vector/Smittox Collective Rhythms Coffee Cream Ale

Cheers and Happy New Year!

Friday, December 13, 2024

By the Horns no longer brewing in Mansfield

Image © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D.

According to reports on the ground, By the Horns, the resident brewing operation at Del Toro BBQ in Mansfield, is now closed.

By the Horns originally emerged in January 2019 as part of a multi-concept development called The Backyard from Brain Storm Shelter. The brewhouse shared space with a taco purveyor for a little over a year, but both shut down in June 2020 due to COVID. The brewery's absence on the scene was then further extended once the parent company filed for bankruptcy.

The assets on site were eventually acquired by Local Favorite Restaurants, who brought By the Horns back to life in the spring of 2022 with a new food partner in the form of Del Toro BBQ. From there, the brewery essentially picked up where it left off in terms of everyday offerings, though house beers were re-branded with a farm and ranch theme to fit in better with the barbecue element.

While the brewery aspect has been discontinued, food service at Del Toro BBQ will continue business as usual.

Thursday, December 12, 2024

Fort Brewery & Pizza to close taproom and restaurant, focus on distribution

Image credit: Fort Brewery & Pizza.

Fort Brewery & Pizza has announced the company will close its taproom and restaurant in Fort Worth, with plans to focus on private events and the production and distribution of its beers.

Founders Will Churchill and Corrie Watson got into the beer business after purchasing Chimera Brewing Co. on Magnolia Ave. in 2018 (originally named Zio Carlo Brewpub when it opened in 2011). The pair moved the business to its current locale at 2737 Tilray St. in October 2021.

The change of venue had helped the brewpub develop a reputation as a premier pizza and live music spot, but according to a social media post, growing demand for its beers and a need to expand has led to this change in direction.

"Over the years, our Distribution has grown like crazy! We went from being found in just our tap room to over 175 retail outlets throughout DFW - and people are screaming for more!

To scale like we need to, we will be closing our Tap Room and Restaurant...so we can focus our energy and attention on Private Events and growing the Fort Brewery brand across our great State of Texas!"

The final day of service at Fort Brewery & Pizza will be Sunday, December 29.

New concept Far-Out replaces Wriggly Tin

Image © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D.

Wriggly Tin, the project which opened in late 2023 featuring Small Beer Works (an evolution of the former Small Brewpub in Oak Cliff), appears to be no more, as a new concept is set to take over the space at 1906 S. Haskell Ave. in Dallas.

In early September, Wriggly Tin announced it would close temporarily to make "internal changes" to its operation. At the time, the brewpub had been open for less than a year.

However, at some point the closure became permanent, and in recent weeks signage for a new tenant named Far-Out was installed on the site. A social media post on December 11 shared the following:

"A Culinary Adventure Awaits!

After months of creative brainstorming and a bit of furniture rearranging, we are thrilled to announce an exciting new pioneering concept that will open its doors in 2025. Introducing Far-Out & La Hermana Cerveceria, a dynamic new restaurant and brewery born from the collaboration of industry veterans: Marc Cassel of The Green Room and 20 Feet Seafood Joint, Christopher Jeffers of Bolsa and Smoke, and Stephanie Houston, the trailblazing first Latina Production distillery owner in America."

Details on what to expect from the brewing operation have not been revealed, but comments on the company's Instagram page suggest Small Beer Works will be rebranded as the aforementioned La Hermana Cerveceria.

For now, though, Far-Out is now open for cocktails while other aspects of the business are finalized.

Tuesday, December 10, 2024

A rare breed indeed, Rahr & Sons turns 20

Image credit: Rahr & Sons Brewing Co.

This year, Rahr & Sons Brewing Co. of Fort Worth celebrates 20 years in business since being founded in 2004. It's no small feat, considering breweries in North Texas have typically only stayed in business for 3-4 years over the course of the past two decades.

In fact, staying power in this market has been a rarity. Just over 10% of brewing operations to open here since 2004 have made it to even 10 years. And 20? Eight have hit the 20-year mark in the history of North Texas, the local industry dating back to 1855. Two happened before Prohibition, after which the list includes MillerCoors, Big Buck Brewery & Steakhouse (later Uncle Buck's), Humperdinks Restaurant & Brewery (three locations), and now Rahr & Sons.

Today, amongst those to debut in the craft era, not only is Rahr & Sons the oldest brewery in North Texas, it's also the 10th oldest physical brewing operation in the entire state (Rahr & Sons ranks 11th as a company, but the 10-spot is occupied by an entity whose products were contract brewed for much of its early existence).

As for how many have come and gone during Rahr & Sons' reign, over 150 breweries have opened since 2004 in North Texas, with 70 of those eventually closing.

So, how did the brewery reach this milestone? The path to 20 didn't come without pitfalls, especially through the time period prior to when the modern craft beer boom took off locally in late 2011. Up to that point, Rahr & Sons persevered despite early financial pressures, head brewer turnover (three in year one, six over the first seven years), temporary management by an equity partner, and ultimately the roof collapse of February 12, 2010, that inspired the beer, Snowmaggedon.

Since then, Rahr & Sons has faced many of the same challenges the industry has as a whole: efforts to overcome and overturn anti-competitive laws, increased competition, COVID, changing consumer preferences and more. Of course, nothing can compare to founder Fritz Rahr's most recent fight against cancer.

Thankfully, the brewery's namesake is back at the helm of the company he worked so hard to keep afloat, which for time in 2005 meant manning the brew kettle as the lone full-time employee. The "Sons" have grown up and are on board these days too, fulfilling the original vision behind the brewery's name.

Looking back, it was interesting to find an article entitled "Fritz Rahr Quit Railroads to Open a Fort Worth Microbrewery," where Fritz told the Fort Worth Star Telegram  he hoped to one day be known as the "Shiner of Fort Worth." A moment later, he altered the sentiment to say "Actually, the Rahr of Fort Worth. How about that?"

The story ran 20 years and two months ago. How about that, indeed.

Cheers and congrats to Rahr & Sons!

Saturday, December 7, 2024

Barley & Board closing brewpub in Denton

Image credit: Barley & Board.

A longtime Denton brewpub is set to close its doors after the first of the year.

Barley & Board, developed by Radical Hospitality Group, debuted on the Downtown Denton Square in August 2015. The company went on to open a second restaurant in The Colony during the summer of 2021, but that locale closed as well just last month.

As the city's first gastropub, elevated food offerings were naturally a focus. But, on the topic of in-house brewing operations, Barley & Board might best be remembered for its Home Brewers League, a program where local homebrewers were invited to collaborate on the production of a commercial batch. At least two Denton-based brewery owners are League alums - Brian "Toast" Tiensvold of Toasty Bros. and Michael Velasco of Black Fox Brewing Co.

According to a social media post, Barley & Board's closure will take effect on Monday, January 6, after a decision was made not to renew the lease on the building at 101 W. Oak St.

Sunday, November 24, 2024

Uptown Rail now slinging beers in Sanger

Image © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D.

The City of Sanger now has a craft beer destination all its own, as Uptown Rail Brewery is open and operating in the town's historic downtown district at 204 Bolivar St.

Todd and Vanessa Benson form the husband-and-wife team behind Uptown Rail, which occupies a 7,500 square foot spot dating back to 1903. Within these confines, the couple has established a bright, open and inviting brewery and taproom outfitted with pool tables, widescreen TVs, and a stage for live music.

Adjacent to the taproom build-out is an additional space dedicated to Uptown Rail's on-site kitchen. Here, they prepare a menu of appetizers (including wings), fresh salads, and brick oven pizzas. Order full pies with either a thin or hand-tossed crust, or choose a cheese or classic pepperoni slice for snacking.

On what there is to wash things down with, Uptown Rail pours beer from a 36-handle tapwall. House beers currently occupy a dozen taps, with those recipes brewed on a small-batch system designed by SmartBrew. Base styles consist of IPAs, pilsners, stouts and wheat beers, with numerous variants available to appeal to different tastes (for example: hazy IPAs, coffee stouts, and fruited wheats).

Remaining draft offerings are mix of guest beers from other local breweries, along with a few macros, ciders and seltzers. Then for other beverage options, there's also soda, wine, liquor, "big beer" longnecks, and a range of non-alcoholic beers in both bottles and cans.

As for Uptown Rail's approach, it derives directly from the inspiration behind the brewery's name and how railroads have always connected people and communities. Along those lines, the Bensons hope to connect locals by providing a place where they can gather to "Sip, Savor and Socialize" in a family-friendly environment.

Uptown Rail Brewery welcomes patrons seven days a week, with service starting at 11:30 a.m. on weekdays, and 11:00 a.m. during the weekend.

Tuesday, November 19, 2024

On a trip to the 2024 Texas Craft Brewers Festival

Image: © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D. Logo: Texas Craft Brewers Guild.

Sitting down to pen some perspectives after my first ever trip to the Texas Craft Brewers Festival (TCBF) in Austin, put on by the Texas Craft Brewers Guild, I was curious to see how many of these events I've missed out on over the years.

Turns out, there have been a lot. History suggests the TCBF has existed in one form or another since 2003 - and that doesn't account for a series of events of the same name that took place in the mid-1990s. Yet, somehow, I've never managed to make it to a single occurrence.

Part of it was probably a proximity thing, though it's a pretty quick drive from Dallas down to the capitol city of Texas. Then there's always a question of weather, considering the event is outside at Fiesta Gardens on Lady Bird Lake, an offshoot of the Colorado River.

Regarding that, while attendees and brewery reps alike raved about the mid-November scheduling this year, the TCBF has usually been held in the early-to-mid fall timeframe. Of course, pushing into November makes the event more likely to hit beyond the "fake fall" and "second summer" seasons in Texas. This past weekend, Austin temperatures were comfortable in the mid-80s with a light breeze keeping things cool, especially for those seeking a respite under shade trees or the covered pavilion on site.

As for event details, naturally the TCBF is all about celebrating the state's small and independent brewers, but at the same time, it's also all about beer. Even as the market environment has pushed industry players and other festival organizers to pivot and offer a wider range of beverage options to patrons, beer was the soul sipping attraction at the 2024 TCBF.

In fact, over 200 beers were poured at this year's gathering, these the products of roughly 80 Texas breweries. Well over 50 of those breweries hailed from Central Texas, with 10 from North Texas, close to a dozen from in-and-around Houston, and a half-dozen or so from San Antonio and points south.

Not surprisingly, IPAs and lagers (pilsners especially) led the way style-wise, with stouts and sour beer numbers noticeable as well. Classic styles weren't really in abundance, but anyone seeking a more traditional pour could take solace in the available Emotional Support Beverage, a cleverly-named ESB from Galveston Bay Brewing of Clear Lake Shores.

The most popular attractions, though, were limited releases tapping periodically throughout the day, and this is where most barrel-aged beers could be found. One favorite from this group was a BA Belgian Quad from Spindletap Brewery of Houston. The list of limited beers also included three selections from North Texas, one of which can currently be had here at home.

On the topic of festival favorites, having had most of the beers from North Texas, my list of preferred pours highlights a number of breweries I wasn't previously familiar with - one exception being Saint Arnold Brewing Co. of Houston, who landed on the list with two cellar releases.

And, I suppose that's the ultimate message here. When you go to a beer festival locally, you're generally looking to discover new breweries close to home. Attend the Texas Craft Brewers Festival, and you'll expand your beer horizons even further as you discover new tastes and learn about different brands from across the Lone Star State. Then maybe, you'll consider visiting these breweries next time you're in the neighborhood.

Cheers!

Monday, November 18, 2024

Lakewood fully transitions Temptress to cans

Image credit: Lakewood Brewing Co.

After 12 years, Lakewood Brewing Co. of Garland has filled its last bottle of Temptress. The brewery's popular imperial milk stout, which reigns as the best-selling craft stout in Texas, is now available in cans statewide.

“We’ve been transitioning the Temptress lineup to cans for a few years now," says Wim Bens, founder and president of Lakewood. "The Seduction Series and Temptress Nitro have been doing great in cans. It was time to switch 100%. As we celebrate Stout Season, which will culminate with our 12th annual Bourbon Barrel Temptress release, beer lovers can now take all versions of Temptress anywhere, especially where glass isn’t allowed.”

A variety of taproom-only releases are on the agenda for Stout Month at Lakewood, with a new limited barrel-aged version of Temptress revealed each week during November.

Of course, as Bens mentions, this all leads up to the annual release of Bourbon Barrel Temptress (BBT) in December. To be sold exclusively in a two-pack of 12-ounce cans at the Lakewood Taproom, the 2024 edition of BBT will debut at a ticketed VIP event on Friday, December 6 (click here to purchase tickets). A party open to everyone follows on Saturday, December 7.

Tuesday, November 12, 2024

Civil Pour raises a Ruckus in Richardson

Images © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D.

Six years after introducing the concept off Walnut Hill Ln. in Dallas, owners Chad and Nellie Montgomery (also of Big Texas Beer Fest) have brought their "Coffee & Beer Ruckus" to the City of Richardson.

The newly-minted second location of Civil Pour Coffee + Beer is now open at 800 N. Coit Rd. in the city's Promenade North retail development. Set up in a 3,000 square foot space, the new spot very much has the look and feel of the original, with light-letting windows upfront, similar stylings filling the room, and a captivating art mural anchoring one wall.

On that last note, the "Peace Goddess" mural was created by Nellie (her first!), and the work is aptly named given the calm and welcoming air about it, as the goddess seems to be inviting guests to settle in with a cup of restorative liquid.

Of course, the liquids in this case could be coffee, or tea, or beer. Menu options in Richardson basically mirror those of the Dallas locale, in terms of both eats and drinks. There are lattes, espresso shots, pour over coffees, and 25 taps of beer for the discerning sipper, with the shop's familiar selection of pastries and paninis on hand for the hungry.

As for the vibe, if an early-week noontime visit is any indication, the goddess will hold court over an atmosphere promising to be - what else? - civil. Other than some quiet conversation, which at times might include elements of academic discourse thanks to UTD students from just down the way, there's nothing to distract from the enjoyment of a leisurely lunch, a quiet cup of joe, or a thought-provoking pint of locally-crafted beer.

Really then, what Civil Pour Richardson represents is a simple extension of the brand, and one which brings the Ruckus more within reach to residents living north of the I-635 "wall."

And, like it's Dallas brethren, Civil Pour Richardson has the makings of a morning, noon and nighttime destination based on its array of in-house offerings. So, along those lines, the shop operates seven days a week, with hours starting at 7:30 a.m. Monday-Saturday, and 8 a.m. on Sunday.

Monday, November 4, 2024

Fort Worth location of Voodoo Brewing has closed

Image © Brian Brown/Beer in Big D.

Though no official announcement has been made, signs point to the permanent closure of Voodoo Brewing Co. - Fort Worth (the site's Google entry has been updated, and the Facebook page taken down). This news comes just over three months after the spot opened at 1001 N. Main St. in the Near Southside neighborhood of the city.

Essentially a locally-owned and operated taproom for the Pennsylvania-based Voodoo Brewing Co., the locale in Fort Worth was the third to debut in North Texas, and fourth overall in the state - joining franchises in Grand Prairie, Plano and Katy. Another brewpub in College Station opened in late September.

Despite the closure, plans still appear to be in motion for previously announced projects in Lewisville, as part of The Realm - Castle Hills development, and in Prosper just across from Prosper ISD's Children's Health Stadium.

Tuesday, October 22, 2024

Meddlesome Moth to host Brooklyn Beer Dinner with Garrett Oliver, November 6

Image courtesy of Brooklyn Brewery.

Meddlesome Moth has announced an upcoming beer dinner with award-winning brewmaster Garrett Oliver from Brooklyn Brewery of New York on Wednesday, November 6 at 6:30pm.

Oliver, who is the author of The Brewmaster's Table and Editor-in-Chief of The Oxford Companion to Beer, was also the recipient of the James Beard Foundation Award for “Outstanding Beer, Wine, or Spirit Professional" in 2014. He will join Chef Case Crawford of the Moth in leading a guided experience featuring six unique Brooklyn beers paired with five Louisiana-inspired food courses.

Tickets for the event are $125 per person, inclusive of tax and gratuity. Reservations are required and space is limited. For more information and a link to purchase tickets go to www.mothinthe.net

Welcome Beer
Brooklyn Lager (5.2% ABV)

First Course
Fonio Rising Double Pilsner (6.4% ABV)
Deep Fried Crawfish Stuffed Okra with Creole tomato sauce

Second Course
Fonio Rising Pale Ale (5.0% ABV)
Chicken and Andouille Sausage Gumbo

Third Course
Stand on the Word, Belgian Strong Golden Ale (9.0% ABV)
Softshell Crab Salad

Fourth Course
Baked Goods, Whiskey Barrel-Aged Brown Ale (8.3% ABV)
Tenderloin with whiskey peppercorn sauce

Fifth Course
Black Chocolate Stout, Russian Imperial Stout (10.0% ABV)
Beignets with fig jam and lavender honey glaze

Friday, October 18, 2024

Pro Brew Supply expands to larger facility in Fort Worth

Image: Pro Brew Supply.

Pro Brew Supply, the premier supplier of raw ingredients and supplies to professional brewers nationwide, has announced their relocation to a newly-renovated, 40,000+ square foot warehouse at 1734 E. El Paso St. in Fort Worth. The new space sets up near Trinity River Distillery and Wild Acre Restaurant & Beer Garden on the same commercial lot.

Founded by Brenden "Stubby" Stubblefield, the company got its start in 2011 as Texas Brewing Inc. (TBI), a retail homebrew supply shop in Haltom City. The servicing of commercial accounts began in 2016, with the success of this aspect leading to the formation of Pro Brew Supply in 2017. The final evolution came in May 2023, when TBI was closed and the focus was shifted to Pro Brew Supply and enhancing service to the professional brewing community across the entire United States.

A significant expansion over their previous 30,000 square foot facility, the new warehouse is custom-designed to meet the unique needs of the operation. It will enable Pro Brew Supply to increase inventory capacity, improve logistical efficiency, and create even more opportunities for collaboration with commercial breweries. Additionally, with a secondary warehouse located in the Chicagoland area, Pro Brew Supply can ensure faster and more efficient distribution to brewers across the country.

"We're thrilled to take this next step in Pro Brew Supply's journey," says Stubblefield. "This new space is tailored specifically to support professional brewers. The expanded facilities, combined with our strategic warehouse locations, allow us to better serve commercial breweries from coast to coast. Our commitment is to the success of professional brewers, and this facility is a key part of that mission."

Pro Brew Supply is planning to host an open house at the new locale in the coming months. This event will provide the professional brewing community with an opportunity to tour the new facility, meet the team, and learn about the exciting developments Pro Brew Supply has in store.

Wednesday, October 16, 2024

Crafting judgement - inside the GABF evaluation process: a guest post by Collin Zreet

Image: Brewers Association.

With another round of the Great American Beer Festival come and gone, there still seems to be a shroud of mystery around the competition process and what it really means to win one of these illustrious awards.

For 2024, there were 8,836 beers and 233 ciders entered into 109 categories (including 170 subcategories) evaluated by 285 expert beer judges. With the addition of judging ciders, this year also saw changes like the creation of three non-alcoholic beer categories (Pale Non-Alcoholic, Amber/Dark Non-Alcoholic, and Specialty Non-Alcoholic), as opposed to one overall non-alcoholic category last year. The largest categories were not surprisingly IPA related: Juicy or Hazy India Pale Ale (349 entries), West Coast IPA (292 entries), and American-Style India Pale Ale (217 entries), with the latter two categories being in one combined category just two years ago. Dortmunder or German-Style Oktoberfest (210 entries) and German-Style Maerzen (195 entries) were also large categories, likely due to the seasonality of the styles being so close to the competition dates.

Unlike homebrew competitions, professional beer competitions are more about hardware and winning than identifying off-flavors and needed process adjustments (though that doesn't mean professional beers are free from off-flavors or other glaring errors). Brewers want to compare their creations with the best across the country and need unbiased qualified judges to provide that feedback. Judges are not chosen at random, nor do they have a bias towards one region of the country over another, as others have speculated.

The judge selection process requires candidates to detail their qualifications in either sensory/QA, professional brewing, extensive beer judging, and/or raw material expertise. Upper-level qualifications from the Cicerone Certification Program and Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) help, but are not necessarily required. On top of those qualifications, judges also submit three letters of recommendation from colleagues that are familiar with their judging qualifications. Once all criteria are submitted, there is typically a two to three year waiting period and invitations are usually sent out a few months before the actual judging occurs. Judges are from all over the country and range from brewers to sensory analysts, yeast lab specialists, hop growers, and even non-commercial high ranking BJCP homebrew judges. There are typically 10% new judges each year, though this year there were 33% new judges, likely from bringing in specialized judges for the newly created cider categories.

But how does a beer progress from a competition entry to bringing home some hardware? Once a brewery decides which beers they want to enter into the competition, they have to declare which category they want to submit their beer into and pay a $180 per beer fee to register it. Choosing a category isn’t as simple as one might think. With so many categories, some beers might actually fit in a few different categories and breweries need to decide which is the “best” category to enter into. This might not even be the category the beer is marketed as (see Houston-based Saint Arnold Brewing Co.'s silver medal winning Scottish-style ale, Saint Arnold Oktoberfest). Being able to discern where a beer truly fits is a winning strategy within itself.

After a beer has been registered and then brewed, it then needs to be sent to the Brewers Association in Boulder, Colorado, where it will be held in refrigeration until it is judged. The Texas Craft Brewers Guild has collection points across the state that allow member breweries to have their beer driven via refrigerated truck all the way to allow for the beers to be in the best condition upon arrival. This does lend a slight advantage for Colorado breweries, as they are able to send fresher beer without the worry of longer travel times than other breweries.

The first session of judging typically happens a few weeks before the actual festival in Denver, with a second session occurring just days before the festival. All judging is done double-blind, so judges are not aware of what specific beer or what brewery’s beer they are judging, and they are not even aware after the festival unless they won a medal. There’s a dedicated team of non-judge volunteers pouring beer and another team running beers to the judging tables to avoid any kind of bias. Judges are also not allowed to judge their own beers.

A typical beer flight is between eight and twelve two-ounce samples and may have several rounds of judging based on the size of the category. Each table has six judges, and each pod of three will evaluate the same flight of beers. The first round is the only round that requires judges to provide written feedback to breweries. No longer are there quantitative scores for each beer, but more open-ended qualitative feedback is provided. The first round is mostly to eliminate beers with off-flavors and large stylistic errors, though sometimes good beers do not advance from this round in favor of other better beers. Of each round, only three move on to the following round. Beyond the first round, all other assessments are between the judges and not recorded. These rounds are typically twelve beers each and are served similarly, passing on three to the following round as well. 

The final round is the same, except all six judges at the table are then deciding between the twelve samples set in front of them. This is where the nitpicking really occurs. Imagine out of all the commercial beers in the U.S. for a certain category, you have the best twelve in front of you and not only have to decide the best three, but which receive gold, silver, and bronze medals. Usually no one agrees at first, and you have to systematically discuss each beer and argue against five other highly accredited beer judges why you think ones should or should not stay on the table for medal consideration. The margins are so small between them and sometimes reasoning even gets philosophical on why one aspect of one beer is more stylistically accurate over another. It gets even more complicated when you consider categories like Experimental Beer, Non-Alcoholic Beer, or Wood-Aged Beer when you are also judging across several different base styles that don’t all have the same criteria.

If you look at some of the larger categories that had three rounds of judging, it typically means that each beer that makes it to the final table has been assessed by twelve different judges, and the category itself has been assessed by 126 different judges in total. Even smaller two round categories have beers assessed by nine judges. For any beer to even make it that far, much less even medal, is a wonderful achievement. Participating breweries are only notified if their beer made it out of the first round and if they medaled. So, even the margin between medaling and not medaling (3rd and 4th place) could be the slimmest of margins, but no one would even know the difference, not even the judges. 

On a typical day, judges assess five to six flights per day across three or four days (depending on session). While it might seem like all fun and games to drink beer in Colorado for a few days (and for sure it is at times), the process and end goal is to objectively assess all of the beers (even the bad ones) and determine the best beers in the U.S., which is taken very seriously by all of the judges.

Congratulations to all of the D-FW local and Texas breweries that participated this year and even brought home some hardware. It is a difficult task to even make it out of the first round, much less progress any further. Please continue to support those local breweries that you love. It is still very difficult for all of them out there, and they all could use your support.



Collin Zreet is a former brewery owner (Funky Picnic Brewery & CafĂ©) and one of only eight Advanced Cicerones in the State of Texas. Throughout his experiences in the craft beer industry, he has specialized in sensory and beer quality, judging several professional beer competitions, including the Great American Beer Festival, and being an instrumental part of setting the styles and guidelines for the Texas Craft Brewers Guild’s annual state-wide Texas Craft Brewers Cup. He also specializes in beer and food pairing, creating and leading over 25 beer dinners across the Dallas-Fort Worth Metroplex.

Monday, October 14, 2024

An evolving experience at the 2024 Great American Beer Festival

Photo courtesy of Brewers Association.

They say change is inevitable, and after walking in for the 15th time, it didn't take long to notice the first of a series of changes instituted for the 2024 Great American Beer Festival, presented by the Brewers Association. Why, you ask? Well, the lights were off over the section of the festival floor closest to brewer/media entry door.

This year, the tradition of organizing breweries primarily by region was scrapped. Instead, themed areas were introduced, with brewers given the option of picking where to pitch their proverbial tent. In addition to where the darkness fell upon the Fright (Halloween) and Blast Off (outer space, far out flavors) sections, there were more luminous areas to Chill (live music and games), to check the Score! (televised sports), and to Prost! (German biergarten).

As for other attractions, some we've seen before, like karaoke, silent disco, and the "History of Craft Beer" exhibit. But then, there was live Lucha Libre (a Mexican style of wrestling) and a mechanical bull, new additions that brought a bit of spectacle to the proceedings.

The bull was well-ridden, the wrestling seemed well-received, and while the question of "Who turned out the lights?" was posed a time or ten, most agreed some type of change in presentation was needed to breathe new life into the event. At least during the Thursday night session, the attendance and energy quotients certainly seemed higher compared to last year.

And, the liquid lineup? Beverage options had already expanded in response to the industry trend of diversifying to reach other types of drinkers, though it felt like beer alternatives were even more present this time around. With a plethora of ciders, seltzers, kombucha, hard sodas and teas, and now canned cocktails, one could argue the Great American Beer Festival of the past is more like a Great American Beverage Festival at present.

That said, naturally there was beer and plenty of it. Like last year, IPAs and various types of lagers dominated menus, with specialty styles fewer and far between. For example, there weren't more than two or three options for beer drinkers hoping to sample Belgian dubbels, German dopplebocks and dunkleweizens, English milds, Flanders beers, or old ales.

Locals from North Texas primarily poured standards from their portfolios as well, those in attendance being 903 Brewers of Sherman, False Idol Brewing of North Richland Hills, Martin House Brewing Co. of Fort Worth, Odd Muse Brewing Co. of Farmers Branch, Peticolas Brewing Co. of Dallas, and Union Bear Brewing Co. of Denton/Plano.

Among national breweries, the longest lines and some of the most sought-after beers were associated with the likeliest suspects: Russian River Brewing Co. and The Lost Abbey of California, WeldWerks Brewing Co. of Colorado, Dogfish Head Brewery of Delaware, 3 Floyds Brewing of Indiana, and Toppling Goliath Brewing Co. of Iowa.

One single-ounce standout was sourced from those above, thanks to Russian River rolling two lines to offset the craft beer electorate looking to cast a vote for Pliny for President 2024, a triple dry-hopped IPA. I didn't vote myself, choosing instead for the quicker path to the brewery's quadrupel, Mortification.

That beer and other festival favorites are shared here based on the idea readers might be traveling and seeking refreshment in the vicinity of a particular purveyor. This also applies to the taproom trip summaries that follow the requisite coverage of local award winners (both pro and amateur) below.

  • Brew 8000 Barrel-Aged Barleywine from Fremont Brewing of Washington.
  • Charles' Kvass from Burns Family Artisan Ales of Colorado.
  • Chocolate Rye Farm Porter from The Colorado Farm Brewery of Colorado.
  • Decorah Nordic Gruit from Pivo Brewery of Iowa.
  • Double Dunkel from Wibby Brewing of Colorado.
  • Mortification Quadrupel from Russian River Brewing Co. of California.
  • Rip This Joint Barrel-Aged Imperial Stout from Firestone Walker Brewing Co. of California and Side Project Brewing of Missouri.
  • Rode Vogel Flanders Red from Strangebird Beer of New York.

Cheers! 


Professional competition results

Changes also extended to the GABF competition. New categories included one for Italian-Style Pilsner, while cider judging took place for the first time with five categories added covering different varieties.

Most-entered categories again favored IPAs, with Juicy/Hazy IPA, West Coast IPA and American-Style IPA securing the top three spots. Then, in perhaps a bit of a surprise, the Dortmunder or German-Style Oktoberfest and German-Style Maerzen categories supplanted Light Lager and German-Style Pilsner (#3 and #5 in 2023) to round out the top five.

Statistics:

  • 8,836 beers judged based on entries sent in from 1,869 breweries and cideries residing in all 50 U.S. states, Washington D.C. and Puerto Rico.
  • 326 total medals awarded across 109 style categories.

As for local winners, four North Texas breweries were honored. Among them, Bankhead Brewing Co. of Rowlett landed its second medal in a row for Hootenanny Bock. The brewpub has now acquired four GABF medals all time (three in the last two years alone), third-most among active brewing operations since 2012.

First time GABF medalists include On Rotation Brewery & Kitchen of Dallas, Odd Muse Brewing Co. of Farmers Branch, and Three Wide Brewing Co. of Fort Worth. Though, it's notable that Three Wide's win for Heart of Glass is a repeat of sorts, since it's based on the recipe and brewed by the same crew behind Rapture Fusion Brown Ale, which won a silver for Rabbit Hole Brewing Co. of Justin in 2015. 

Silver

  • On Rotation Brewery & Kitchen for Jalapeño Saison - Chile Beer.
  • Odd Muse Brewing Co. for 500 Pesos - International-Style Pilsner.
  • Three Wide Brewing Co. for Heart of Glass - American-Style Brown Ale.
Bronze
  • Bankhead Brewing Co. for Hootenanny - Bock.

Representatives from Odd Muse (top left), Bankhead (top right) and Three Wide (bottom)
accept their awards at the 2024 Great American Beer Festival (Photos: Brewers Association).

Source: Individual research.

National Homebrew Competition results

Another new aspect of this year's GABF event was the announcement of the 2024 National Homebrew Competition winners, the crowning ceremony taking place literally as the festival was going on.

Statistics:

  • 3,593 beers judged based on entries sent in from 1,179 homebrewers in 47 U.S. states, Washington D.C., and 7 international countries.
  • 150 total medals awarded across 50 style categories.

Five locally-made brews garnered recognition, with Jarrett Long and John Bates of the Fort Worth-based club, Horsemen of the Hopocalypse, further winning the Ninkasi Award, a prize given to the homebrewer (or team) accumulating the most points during the final round of competition.

Gold
  • Jarrett Long with John Bates of Horsemen of the Hopocalypse, Fort Worth - Brown British Beer.
Silver
  • Ian Heger of North Texas Homebrewers Association, Dallas - American Wheat & Blond.
  • Jarrett Long with John Bates of Horsemen of the Hopocalypse, Fort Worth - American Porter & Stout.
  • Jarrett Long with John Bates of Horsemen of the Hopocalypse, Fort Worth - Semi-Sweet Mead.
Bronze
  • Fritz Schanz of Denton County Homebrewers Guild, Aubrey - Specialty Beer.

Taproom trips
  • This year, destinations visited in hopes of enjoying brews with a view included Broken Compass Brewing Co. of Breckenridge (the outlet outside of town) and Outer Range Brewing Co. of Frisco. Both delivered on liquids and the lookout point, especially Outer Range with its upstairs patio. The two spots are eight miles apart, with other breweries around if you're looking to make a day of it up in the mountains. Also highly recommended - a lunch of exotic links at Ein Prosit Fine Beer & Sausages in Downtown Frisco.
Tasty beers pair well with mountain views at Outer Range Brewing Co. of Frisco
and Broken Compass Brewing Co. of Breckenridge (© Brian Brown/Beer in Big D).
  • In recent times, a number of Denver-area breweries have expanded their reach by opening supplemental sites out in the suburbs. One is Prost Brewing Co., now serving its brand of traditional German beer in Denver (the original), Fort Collins, Highlands Ranch and Northglenn. The new HQ in Northglenn is, in a word...huge. The facility combines a 10,000 square foot taproom, with a 60,000 square foot production space, an outdoor biergarten, full kitchen and more. Again...huge.

Prost now operates four locations, including the above HQ in Northglenn, Colorado (© Brian Brown/Beer in Big D).




Monday, October 7, 2024

Meddlesome Moth to host Meanwhile Pairdiné, October 20

Image credit: Meddlesome Moth.

In celebration of the Austin-based brewery's fourth anniversary, Meddlesome Moth will host a beer dinner with Meanwhile Brewing Co. on Sunday, October 20 at 6 p.m. Special guests include Will Jaquiss, founder and brewmaster at Meanwhile, and Conner Griffillan, the brewery's director of sales and marketing.

They, along with Chef Case Crawford of the Moth, will lead a guided experience featuring seven brews expertly paired with six food courses. And, while Meanwhile has shipped products to the Metroplex in the past, some of the beers will be offered in this market for the first time.

Tickets for the event are $110 per person, inclusive of tax and gratuity. Reservations are required and space is limited.  For more information and a link to purchase tickets go to www.mothinthe.net

Welcome Beer
Meanwhile Pilsner, German-style Lager (4.8% ABV, 27 IBU)

First Course
Texas Blue Corn Lager (4.8% ABV, 12 IBU)
Crispy Stuffed Squash Blossoms with ricotta, thyme, sausage, basil oil

Second Course
Tropical Sour (4.7% ABV, 7 IBU)
Powerpuff Salad with roasted beets, Valencia orange, watercress, toasted almonds, goat cheese, blackberry vinaigrette

Third Course
Edible Colors, West Coast IPA (7.2% ABV, 65 IBU)
Beer Cheese Soup

Fourth Course
Rainbow Paradise, Juicy IPA (6.6% ABV, 44 IBU)
Rabbit Leg Confit with fennel, fig, thyme

Fifth Course
Fourth Anniversary Barrel-aged Stout
Chocolate Moon Pie

Sixth Course
Coffee IPA (a collaboration with Vector Brewing of Dallas)
Baklava