Showing posts with label Collin Zreet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Collin Zreet. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 16, 2024

Crafting judgement - inside the GABF evaluation process: a guest post by Collin Zreet

Image: Brewers Association.

With another round of the Great American Beer Festival come and gone, there still seems to be a shroud of mystery around the competition process and what it really means to win one of these illustrious awards.

For 2024, there were 8,836 beers and 233 ciders entered into 109 categories (including 170 subcategories) evaluated by 285 expert beer judges. With the addition of judging ciders, this year also saw changes like the creation of three non-alcoholic beer categories (Pale Non-Alcoholic, Amber/Dark Non-Alcoholic, and Specialty Non-Alcoholic), as opposed to one overall non-alcoholic category last year. The largest categories were not surprisingly IPA related: Juicy or Hazy India Pale Ale (349 entries), West Coast IPA (292 entries), and American-Style India Pale Ale (217 entries), with the latter two categories being in one combined category just two years ago. Dortmunder or German-Style Oktoberfest (210 entries) and German-Style Maerzen (195 entries) were also large categories, likely due to the seasonality of the styles being so close to the competition dates.

Unlike homebrew competitions, professional beer competitions are more about hardware and winning than identifying off-flavors and needed process adjustments (though that doesn't mean professional beers are free from off-flavors or other glaring errors). Brewers want to compare their creations with the best across the country and need unbiased qualified judges to provide that feedback. Judges are not chosen at random, nor do they have a bias towards one region of the country over another, as others have speculated.

The judge selection process requires candidates to detail their qualifications in either sensory/QA, professional brewing, extensive beer judging, and/or raw material expertise. Upper-level qualifications from the Cicerone Certification Program and Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) help, but are not necessarily required. On top of those qualifications, judges also submit three letters of recommendation from colleagues that are familiar with their judging qualifications. Once all criteria are submitted, there is typically a two to three year waiting period and invitations are usually sent out a few months before the actual judging occurs. Judges are from all over the country and range from brewers to sensory analysts, yeast lab specialists, hop growers, and even non-commercial high ranking BJCP homebrew judges. There are typically 10% new judges each year, though this year there were 33% new judges, likely from bringing in specialized judges for the newly created cider categories.

But how does a beer progress from a competition entry to bringing home some hardware? Once a brewery decides which beers they want to enter into the competition, they have to declare which category they want to submit their beer into and pay a $180 per beer fee to register it. Choosing a category isn’t as simple as one might think. With so many categories, some beers might actually fit in a few different categories and breweries need to decide which is the “best” category to enter into. This might not even be the category the beer is marketed as (see Houston-based Saint Arnold Brewing Co.'s silver medal winning Scottish-style ale, Saint Arnold Oktoberfest). Being able to discern where a beer truly fits is a winning strategy within itself.

After a beer has been registered and then brewed, it then needs to be sent to the Brewers Association in Boulder, Colorado, where it will be held in refrigeration until it is judged. The Texas Craft Brewers Guild has collection points across the state that allow member breweries to have their beer driven via refrigerated truck all the way to allow for the beers to be in the best condition upon arrival. This does lend a slight advantage for Colorado breweries, as they are able to send fresher beer without the worry of longer travel times than other breweries.

The first session of judging typically happens a few weeks before the actual festival in Denver, with a second session occurring just days before the festival. All judging is done double-blind, so judges are not aware of what specific beer or what brewery’s beer they are judging, and they are not even aware after the festival unless they won a medal. There’s a dedicated team of non-judge volunteers pouring beer and another team running beers to the judging tables to avoid any kind of bias. Judges are also not allowed to judge their own beers.

A typical beer flight is between eight and twelve two-ounce samples and may have several rounds of judging based on the size of the category. Each table has six judges, and each pod of three will evaluate the same flight of beers. The first round is the only round that requires judges to provide written feedback to breweries. No longer are there quantitative scores for each beer, but more open-ended qualitative feedback is provided. The first round is mostly to eliminate beers with off-flavors and large stylistic errors, though sometimes good beers do not advance from this round in favor of other better beers. Of each round, only three move on to the following round. Beyond the first round, all other assessments are between the judges and not recorded. These rounds are typically twelve beers each and are served similarly, passing on three to the following round as well. 

The final round is the same, except all six judges at the table are then deciding between the twelve samples set in front of them. This is where the nitpicking really occurs. Imagine out of all the commercial beers in the U.S. for a certain category, you have the best twelve in front of you and not only have to decide the best three, but which receive gold, silver, and bronze medals. Usually no one agrees at first, and you have to systematically discuss each beer and argue against five other highly accredited beer judges why you think ones should or should not stay on the table for medal consideration. The margins are so small between them and sometimes reasoning even gets philosophical on why one aspect of one beer is more stylistically accurate over another. It gets even more complicated when you consider categories like Experimental Beer, Non-Alcoholic Beer, or Wood-Aged Beer when you are also judging across several different base styles that don’t all have the same criteria.

If you look at some of the larger categories that had three rounds of judging, it typically means that each beer that makes it to the final table has been assessed by twelve different judges, and the category itself has been assessed by 126 different judges in total. Even smaller two round categories have beers assessed by nine judges. For any beer to even make it that far, much less even medal, is a wonderful achievement. Participating breweries are only notified if their beer made it out of the first round and if they medaled. So, even the margin between medaling and not medaling (3rd and 4th place) could be the slimmest of margins, but no one would even know the difference, not even the judges. 

On a typical day, judges assess five to six flights per day across three or four days (depending on session). While it might seem like all fun and games to drink beer in Colorado for a few days (and for sure it is at times), the process and end goal is to objectively assess all of the beers (even the bad ones) and determine the best beers in the U.S., which is taken very seriously by all of the judges.

Congratulations to all of the D-FW local and Texas breweries that participated this year and even brought home some hardware. It is a difficult task to even make it out of the first round, much less progress any further. Please continue to support those local breweries that you love. It is still very difficult for all of them out there, and they all could use your support.



Collin Zreet is a former brewery owner (Funky Picnic Brewery & Café) and one of only eight Advanced Cicerones in the State of Texas. Throughout his experiences in the craft beer industry, he has specialized in sensory and beer quality, judging several professional beer competitions, including the Great American Beer Festival, and being an instrumental part of setting the styles and guidelines for the Texas Craft Brewers Guild’s annual state-wide Texas Craft Brewers Cup. He also specializes in beer and food pairing, creating and leading over 25 beer dinners across the Dallas-Fort Worth Metroplex.

Sunday, June 2, 2024

Pouring over non-alcoholic beer - navigating taste, style and authenticity: a guest post by Collin Zreet

Non-alcoholic efforts to this point have covered a range of different beer styles (Collin Zreet).

While recently taking a break from drinking alcohol, I have embraced the opportunity to explore the fast-growing realm of non-alcoholic (NA) beers.  This is an especially great time to do so, since there has been a surge of these beers being produced in the craft and macro beer markets.

After trying several different brands, styles, and production methods, it has me thinking: what makes a good (or great) NA beer?  Does it have to be “to style?”  Does it have to taste exactly like a version that contains alcohol?  Does it even have to taste good?  All of these questions have been rattling around inside my brain as I reach for more NA beers from known, unknown, local, national, and international breweries.

First and foremost, any beer has to taste good to you and your own preferences.  Too many times I hear: “It’s good for an NA beer.”  “It’s better than I thought it would be.”  So … is it a good beer then?  Or just not that bad?  Whether you are not drinking alcohol for health or personal reasons, drink what tastes right to you.  Just because someone else doesn’t like it, or someone is shunning the entire NA category, it shouldn’t shy you away from an NA beer that you might end up liking.

On a similar note, I’ve had several people tell me that Guinness 0.0 and Heineken 0.0 are the best NA beers simply because they taste exactly like the regular versions.  While I do agree that those respective NA versions taste incredibly similar to their alcohol-laden counterparts, what if you don’t prefer those beers to begin with?  Does that still make it a good NA beer?  If those are your kinds of beers, then great!  That is the best scenario:  a beer that you enjoy whether it has alcohol or not.  If not, don’t feel obligated to claim those as the best NA beers for you.  Personally, if it tastes good, I am all for it, and extra bonus points if it tastes like the version that has alcohol in it.

But does an NA beer have to be “to style?”  I can see this going a few different ways, but first let’s see how the professional guidelines define NA beer.  While the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) does not list an NA category (as they cater more to homebrewers), The Great American Beer Festival, being a competition for only commercial beer, does.

From the 2023 Brewers Association Beer Style Guidelines:

  • Non-alcohol (N/A) malt beverages can emulate the character of any beer style defined within these guidelines but with no or nearly no alcohol (less than 0.5% ABV). Ethyl acetate should not be present. Due to their nature, non-alcohol malt beverages will have a profile lacking the complexity and balance of flavors that beers containing alcohol will display. N/A beers should be assessed with this in mind, and should not be given negative evaluations for reasons related to the absence of alcohol.

Essentially, NA beers need to follow the guidelines for the declared base style, but the guidelines do allow for some flexibility in judging for lack of complexity and balance from the alcohol not being present.  This being said, should we hold NA beers to the same strict guideline standards as alcohol-containing beers?  Or should we allow some flexibility and lenience even outside of what the guidelines already state? 

I have yet to find an NA IPA (hazy, West Coast, or otherwise) to completely solve the issue of lack of balance and astringency that occurs when there is no alcohol present.  Some have come close, but none close enough to convince me that it is 100% possible.  The perceived sweetness of the malt and alcohol is needed to offset the bitterness of the hops.  While NA IPAs will never reach the IBUs of a standard West Coast IPA, I believe the term “IPA” here is still valid to use because it implies that the beer contained inside is going to be pale and very hop forward.  The term “IPA” has been used for less than this before in many applications, so I am totally comfortable with it.  I notice a similar imbalance with darker styles (porters, stouts), except in this case the bitterness comes more from the dark roasted grains than hops.  Lighter styles seem to be the best example so far, since they traditionally lack bitterness and don’t have to worry about balancing it out with malt sweetness.

On the reverse, I do see some breweries taking liberties with very unique and nuanced styles, trying to claim those styles attract more savvy and knowledgeable beer drinkers who are above drinking more commonly labeled styles.  A brewery may be trying to label an NA beer as a Kölsch, when some of the key characteristics of the style are missing (light bready sweet malt character, continental European hop character with moderate bitterness), when they could have easily called it a blonde or golden ale.  That being said, there are also plenty of examples of this same misappropriation within standard alcohol-containing beers as well.

So, what should one be looking for if a beer is trying to be more to style?  Here are a few things that might be different with a style being tweaked to make it NA:

  • Appearance:  There should be really no change here.  Using fewer base malts, which provide most of the sugars for converting to alcohol, may lighten color, but can be easily adjusted with specialty malts that would not add any significant sugars.  Head retention may be affected by the use of less malt (and therefore head-forming proteins), but once again, specialty malts can be added in to compensate.
  • Aroma:  Changes in malt may slightly affect the aroma, but the biggest difference here would be in yeast-driven aromas, especially fruity esters and spicy phenols that are primary.
  • Flavor:  The most significant change I have noticed here is in the balance between sweetness and bitterness of the beer.  Having less malt and alcohol in these beers, the overall perceived sweetness is substantially lower, leaving a stronger perceived bitterness as well.  This can leave an overwhelming sense of dryness and astringency in the beer, especially in more hop-forward styles, like IPAs.  Bitterness from other sources, like dark roasted grains, can also lead to this imbalance.
  • Mouthfeel:  Because malt adds body to beer, when less malt is used in general, the body tends to be a bit thinner. Also, when there is less body, more hop-forward styles can come across as astringent, meaning that they imbue a drying puckering sensation in the mouth, like sucking on a tea bag.

Taking all of these into consideration, the styles that would be best represented as an NA beer would likely be those definitely lower in overall intensity and especially lower in bitterness.  Pale lagers definitely fit this, as well as similar other styles like Kölsch and blonde ales. 

In the end, it comes down to you and your own preferences.  If you need to have NA beer for personal or health reasons, there are more options out there than ever before.  Not just the macro brewers, but now the smaller and local brewers too.  If NA beer just isn’t the same to you as their standard counterparts, that’s fine too.  Find what fits you best.



Collin Zreet is a former brewery owner (Funky Picnic Brewery & Café) and one of only eight Advanced Cicerones in the State of Texas.  Throughout his experiences in the craft beer industry, he has specialized in sensory and beer quality, judging several professional beer competitions, including the Great American Beer Festival and being an instrumental part of setting the styles and guidelines for the Texas Craft Brewers Guild’s annual state-wide Brewers Cup.  He also specializes in beer and food pairing, creating and leading over 25 beer dinners across the Dallas-Fort Worth Metroplex.