A ten-year toast to the Temptress

Image credit: Lakewood Brewing Co.

Fresh off the celebration of its tenth anniversary, Lakewood Brewing Co. of Garland is now a member of a select group. The company is one of only eight active breweries (more will join the list in 2023) to reach what is historically a rare milestone. Since 1857, the year the first known brewery was making beer in North Texas, less than 10% of those who opened have made it to the ten-year mark.

My introduction to Lakewood came when I met founder Wim Bens at a beer festival in early 2011. This was more than a year before the brewery made its debut in August 2012. Bens mentioned he was seeking feedback on test batches for styles being considered for Lakewood's opening day lineup. Subsequent meetings at Homebrew Headquarters followed, which led to my first taste of Temptress Imperial Milk Stout in June 2011.

Temptress was one of two stout recipes in the running, the other being a beer called King Henry. They originated from a split batch, Temptress finished with a London ale yeast prior to being sweetened with lactose and vanilla post-fermentation. King Henry, on the other hand, was unsweetened and fermented with a Belgian yeast.

Based on early returns, Bens would say, "We're leaning towards the Temptress."

Now 11 years later, Temptress has been a staple of Lakewood's portfolio since day one. And, according to sales director Kyle Jordan, it's the #1 selling craft stout in Texas (based on recent IRI data). Retail shipments of the beer total just under 23,000 cases per year, on average (draft sales are not included in this number).

Temptress itself is a rare breed as well, being one of only a handful of North Texas beers to be in continuous production for 10 years or more. Such longevity is impressive, considering how breweries must now operate in a market where consumers demand fresh, new releases on a daily basis.

Of course, it helps that Lakewood has kept things interesting for the whole of the last decade. Temptress has spawned over 10 different commercial varieties (not counting taproom one-offs), the best-selling versions since 2016 being Peanut Butter Temptress and French Quarter Temptress, in that order. It also forms the basis of one of the area's most sought-after barrel-aged beers, Bourbon Barrel Temptress.

Oh, and let's not forget the baked goods. Wackym's Kitchen, a locally-owned and operated bakery, took the beer and turned it into a confection, launching The Temptress cookies in May 2019.

Looking back over my notes from that initial tasting in 2011, I expressed the opinion that milk/sweet stouts were an under-represented style. At the time, this was certainly true since the only other one around was Left Hand Milk Stout -  an iconic representation of the style on the national level.

Well, after ten years of tempting local craft beer drinkers with its chocolatey goodness, I think it's fair to say Temptress is on its way to being recognized in a similar manner. That is, as one of the iconic beers of North Texas.

An historical foray for Stout Day

Copyright © 2016 The Beer Goddess.

Today, it's all about the stout. That's because it's International Stout Day, a celebration of dark, decadent brews that got its start in 2011. So, in the spirit of that, I offer up a short synopsis of stouts that have been available at different times in North Texas history. Hey, it's what I do...I read old books and newspapers to learn how our scene has evolved. Sometimes such explorations also involve the consumption of beer...and more often than not, what I'm drinking is exactly the kind of rich, roasty and/or chocolately brew that inspired the creation of the day.

Cheers!

Drinking stout in pre-Prohibition Dallas

North Texans were drinking stout, or at least a kind of beer that would evolve into what was called a stout (more on that in a moment) as early as 1873. "Brown Stout Porter" could be found for sale at area grocers alongside imported lagers and Scotch ales. Many early listings don't credit the brewer, but C.G. Hibbert of London was likely the bottler of the stout porter advertised, since regular shipments from the firm were arriving at the Port of Galveston during the same period of time.

Dallas Daily Herald (Dallas, Tex.), Vol. 1, No. 42, Ed. 1 Sunday, March 30, 1873, newspaper, Dallas, Texas. (texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth279736/: accessed November 2, 2016), University of North Texas Libraries, The Portal to Texas History, texashistory.unt.edu.

With regards to that other famous stout, Guinness was being sold early on by locals as well (purportedly for medicinal purposes), though it doesn't appear in Dallas newspaper ads until around 1881. Shipments to Galveston show Guinness being sent to Texas by 1865, but it's not clear when it was first stocked in North Texas. Many times the beer was billed as Burke's Guinness Dublin Stout, due to the fact that Guinness didn't bottle its own products until well after Prohibition. Back then, they used a network of bottlers to package and ship their beer to America. Edward and John Burke, who were grandsons of Arthur Guinness, owned one such distribution company and the U.S. was their largest market.

The Dallas Daily Herald. (Dallas, Tex.), Vol. XXIVII, No. 132, Ed. 1 Saturday, April 30, 1881, newspaper, Dallas, Texas. (texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth286467/: accessed November 2, 2016), University of North Texas Libraries, The Portal to Texas History, texashistory.unt.edu

"Imperial" is the new "stout"

It's true! Well, sort of. During the 1800s, stouts actually grew out of a stronger version of porter usually referred to as "stout porter." Nowadays, whenever a brewery releases a stronger version of a particular style, they add the imperial tag (imperial IPA, imperial saison, imperial brown ale, etc.). So, if you think about it, given the seemingly similar style guidelines between porters and stouts, in today's lingo a stout could also be called an imperial porter. Looking at things in those terms, you might say "imperial" is the new "stout."


Big beers were a part of the '90s boom

In the mid-to-late 1990s, when brewpubs dominated the local beer scene after being legalized in 1993, stouts were actually relatively common. Yegua Creek Brewing Co., the area's first brewpub, was probably the first local spot to brew a stout, but at least a half-dozen other brewpubs offered a stout at one time or another. A couple of them were even award winners:

• Copper Tank - Mocha Madness Coffee Stout, gold medal in the Herb/Spice Beers category at the 1998 Great American Beer Festival.
• Two Rows - Imperial Stout, bronze medal in the Imperial Stout category at the 2000 Great American Beer Festival.

Something worth noting about these two beers is that the brewers involved in their creation are still active in the brew scene today. Jon Sims, formerly of Four Corners, Oak Highlands and Texas Ale Project (but, now working at Wynkoop in Colorado), was an assistant brewer at Copper Tank in 1998, while Mike Kraft, currently the director of brewing operations at Wild Acre, was running the brewhouse at Two Rows in 2000.

The first locally-crafted stout beer and whiskey blend?

Speaking of Two Rows, that brewpub might have been considered ahead of its time based on one beer it produced. Years before barrel-aged beers would become commonplace, Two Rows whipped up a beer and bourbon blend called Wild Turkey Stout. If memory serves, it hit taps sometime around 2003, and much like the stronger beers of today, it was served in a smaller vessel due to its higher ABV.

Moving past the new Millennium

After the year 2000, Fort Worth's Healthy Brew included a stout in its organic lineup, while Great Grains of Dallas was brewing Wildcatter's Crude Stout, a recipe they licensed from the by-then defunct Yellow Rose Brewing Co. of San Antonio. The Covey in Fort Worth had one as well, called Smokestack Stout. That beer won a silver medal in the Smoke-Flavored Beer category at the 2009 Los Angeles International Beer Competition. Then, of course, came Snowmageddon, an imperial oatmeal stout that commemorates the great roof collapse that occurred at Rahr & Sons in 2010.

While still being brewed by Yellow Rose Brewing of San Antonio, Wildcatter's Crude Stout

was singled out as a Gold Medal winner by the Beverage Tasting Institute.

Left: Armadillo's Quakertown Stout won gold in the Imperial Stout category at GABF in 2014.

Right: Sasquatch from 903 Brewers won silver in the Aged Beer category at GABF in 2015.

As for the here and now, North Texas currently has a plethora of obsidian offerings. Most are familiar with names like Community Legion, The Temptress from Lakewood and others, but let's not forget about the two locally-brewed stouts that have brought home major awards during the current craft beer renaissance (see details in the caption above). One, that being Sasquatch from 903 Brewers , is likely stalking your local store shelves as we speak. And, the other? That would be Quakertown Stout, the product of Denton-based Armadillo Ale Works...a beer that will re-appear soon.

Taps & Caps teams with Cobra for coconut collab

Image credits: Cobra Brewing Co., Lone Star Taps & Caps.

Amongst the myriad of new beers coming out for North Texas Beer Week is one you might miss without a trip to the northern side of the Metroplex. On tap now at Lone Star Taps & Caps (T &C), All Eyez on Me is a collaborative effort between the shop and the neighboring Cobra Brewing Co. of Lewisville. It's a Russian imperial stout brewed with toasted coconut, which T&C co-founder Rick Ali says is inspired by the work of a hip-hop legend.

Tupac Shakur released the album All Eyez on Me in 1996, at a time when, Ali proclaims, the artist "was the best at what he did and a game-changer in his profession." The beer, he explains, "is an ode to that and how we (at T&C) are proud to be a part of the Texas craft beer scene after having been at the forefront of the movement for the last 10 years." And, like Tupac, Ali continues, "we are always trying to push beyond the norm." To get a sense of what he means, simply swap the themes of thug life and crime in the album's title track to craft beer and dedication to the industry.

Ali has wanted to collaborate with a brewery for some time. The partnership with Cobra was a no brainer, in his mind, because he believes they tend to brew the types of beers he and many of his customers like to drink. "Dawn of the Dank, Kitchen Sink, Spring Cleaning and Barrel Aged Klurichan are beers that have all that I want," says Ali. "Each is well-balanced with great aroma and a high ABV that is hidden well."

All Eyez on Me (© Brian Brown/Beer In Big D).

Brewing a Russian imperial stout was another easy decision, since it's one of Ali's favorite styles and one he drinks year-round. As for the added ingredient, coconut is a favorite food of his as well, so to him it was a must-have addition. Ali even arose at an early hour to help out on brew day, something that was naturally set to the soundtrack of Tupac's inspirational song.

In terms of tasting notes, my impressions are that the coconut is more of a subtle player in All Eyez on Me, though it does lend a little bit of lingering sweetness to the aftertaste. Otherwise the beer is rich and roasty, with a bitter finish reminiscent of a high-cacao chocolate bar. It's an all-too-easy drinker considering its strength, with a medium body and virtually no hint of the 9.92% ABV.

All Eyez on Me is a good beer, and one that furthers my belief that founders Neil MacCuish and Bill Shaw have found their groove at the brewery in Lewisville. In addition to the heftier beers Ali mentions above, lighter offerings like the hazelnut-infused Donut Dunker have proven to be solid efforts as well. Given that, if it's been a while since you've visited Cobra, it might be worth your time to give them a second look.

As for this batch of All Eyez on Me, enough was made to fill only five half-barrel kegs, so it will only be available for a limited time. Should the beer prove to be popular, Ali hopes he and MacCuish can continue to develop the recipe, perhaps offering different variants with other ingredients in the future.

Rahr & Sons to release 11th anniversary beer

Images courtesy of Rahr & Sons Brewing Co.

This October, Rahr & Sons Brewing Company of Fort Worth will celebrate its 11th anniversary with a series of events at the brewery and a special commemorative beer.

Rahr & Sons' 11th anniversary beer will be a Russian imperial stout brewed with toasted coconut. A description of the beer, as it appears on product packaging, promises that the "huge roasted, chocolate and caramelized malt flavors will knock you off your feet as hints of toasted coconut dance on your palate."

(click to enlarge)

According to a press release, the beer will debut on tap during 11th anniversary events going on October 23-24 at the brewery. After that, it will be available both on draft and at retail accounts in 22-ounce bottles.

As for the festivities, details are as follows:

Friday, October 23 (7-10 p.m.): VIP beer tasting featuring live music, food trucks and more than 40 different brews. Tickets are $25 and limited to 500, with attendees receiving a commemorative pint glass.

Saturday, October 24 (11 a.m. - 4 p.m.): Extended tasting featuring live music, food trucks and additional rarities including an oak barrel of 2011 Bourbon Barrel Aged Winter Warmer and a firkin of Angry Goat aged on chocolate covered banana chips. Tickets are $25 for VIP (500 total, with early access from 11 a.m. - 1 p.m.) and $10 for general admission (1000 total, entry at 1 p.m.), with attendees receiving a commemorative pint glass.

Tickets for both events go on sale Tuesday, September 15 at the following link:

rahrandsons-brewing-company.ticketleap.com

Birthday Beer: Shiner's surprising chocolate stout

Image credit: McGarrah Jessee and
The Gambrinus Company.

I guess Forrest Gump was right when he said "Life is like a box of chocolates," since one look at Shiner's latest offering will have you thinking, "you never know what you're gonna get."

The quote is appropriate because earlier this week I received what was, in effect, a box of chocolates from the Spoetzl Brewery and their brand manager McGarrah Jessee. It was a gift of sorts, to help celebrate the brewery's 106th birthday. Of course, one might have expected to look inside and find a traditional German lager, but much to my surprise the contents revealed Shiner's new chocolate stout. Needless to say, based on past history, it wasn't what I thought I was gonna get.

Birthday Beer, a.k.a. Shiner 106, is a limited-edition creation brewed in small batches with chocolate malt and real cocoa. It's the first stout produced by Shiner, coming a little less than three years after the brewery crafted its first ale in Wild Hare Pale Ale, and a further departure from their traditional line of lagers. As for the number designation, in addition to referring to the number of years Spoetzl has been in business, it's a continuation of a series of annual releases that began with Shiner 96.

Samples of Birthday Beer arrived in a gift box, appropriately wrapped in paper with a birthday party motif. An accompanying card, depicted in the image above, described the beer as having "a distinctly chocolate aroma and taste." You'll find no argument here, as a rich cocoa powder character is evident immediately upon opening. This persists throughout the drinking experience, as does an underlying sweetness which is balanced by a hint of chocolate bitterness in the finish. The beer has reasonable body, along with some chalkiness and a fair bit of carbonation, and while I wouldn't call it "stout" in terms of strength or feel, there's a good amount of flavor for a brew that fits right in with Shiner's easy-drinking style.

The card goes on to suggest that Birthday Beer will return again next year, presumably keeping the same name but with the contents being yet another surprise that's "something completely different." If you're a fan of the "little brewery," I suppose that gives you something to look forward to. For now, though, this year's edition will be available in twelve-ounce bottles and cans. Seek it out wherever Shiner products are sold.


Birthday Beer - Shiner 106
Style: Chocolate Stout
ABV: 5.0%
IBU: 18
Malts: 6-Row, Chocolate
Hops: Nugget
Other: Cocoa

Tasting notes: 2013 Lakewood Bourbon Barrel Temptress

Image credit:  Lakewood Brewing Company

It may be a hockey term, but when drinking Temptress at the Lakewood Brewing Company, I'm not sure there could be a more fitting name for the taproom than "Sin Bin".  I mean, it says right there on the label that it's a beer that "pairs well with sin", so it seems quite appropriate.

I bring this up because I happened by the brewery today for a taste of 2013 Bourbon Barrel Temptress (BBT), and let's just say visions of sugar plums were not what was dancing in my head.

Image credit:  Brian Brown

As for how it tastes, founder Wim Bens thinks it's a better beer than what they put out a year ago.  Like the last go around, Temptress spent about six months in Bulleit Bourbon barrels, but Bens was of the opinion that initial tappings of the 2012 vintage were a little hot.  This time, he feels like there's a better balance right out of the barrel.  He says a fresh 2013 BBT is like drinking last year's version after it had been aging an additional few months.

Sampling BBT on nitro, you don't get as much bourbon flavor as you do with standard carbonation, but it's still got plenty of wood character to go with all of the chocolate and vanilla elements we've come to expect in a glass of what is probably the brewery's most popular beer.

Ice storm or not BBT makes its debut this Saturday, December 7 at 12 p.m., during Lakewood's regular tour. A single keg of BBT Nitro will also be offered, one of only four that exist for this beer which will also be a brewery exclusive.  From there regular BBT is expected to start hitting draft accounts early next week, with around 300 cases of 22-ounce bottles soon to follow.

Cheers!