LUCK leaves a lasting legacy of local support

Last call at LUCK (© Brian Brown/Beer in Big D).

Six years after introducing its concept of a craft beer-inspired kitchen, LUCK at Trinity Groves held its final service last night in Dallas.

Founding partners Jeff Dietzman, Daniel Pittman and Ned Steel established LUCK (an acronym for Local Urban Craft Kitchen) in 2013, with a mission to provide the best in local food and local beer. And make no mistake, LUCK was a local leader, especially when it came to promoting the North Texas beer industry.

From the beginning, LUCK touted a tap wall of 40 beers, all sourced from a brewery within 75 miles of its location. But, the restaurant's commitment to supporting local brewers went far beyond just serving local beer to its customers. It was about bringing awareness to area breweries by way of unique and varied events, as well as the simple act of being present on a day-to-day basis throughout the local scene.

On the event side, LUCK's beer and food pairing flights may be what's remembered most. Donut pairings were the biggest deal, by far, followed by Girl Scout cookies - both of which have been the catalyst for copycat events ever since. However, let's not forget other items LUCK featured on its flight pairing menu: bacon, bierrocks, British pies, cake balls, cheesecakes, chocolates, cookies, cookie dough, cupcakes, empanadas, German food, Halloween candy, mini pies, sushi, tacos, tamales, tarts and tostadas.

Those flights, along with local pint nights and beer dinners increased awareness of active breweries, but it's also important to note how LUCK brought attention to breweries looking to open in the future. Tastings with breweries in development were a staple of events like LUCKtoberfest, LUCKapalooza and the restaurant's anniversary gatherings. In fact, over the course of LUCK's existence, roughly 80 new brewing operations debuted in Dallas-Fort Worth, and nearly 30% of those sampled beer at LUCK prior to opening.

Then, of course, there was the Craft Beer and Chili Challenge, an annual event bringing together the entire craft beer community to benefit North Texas Food Bank. At its peak, upwards of 40 local breweries competed in this fun and lively cook-off event that was a highlight of the late-winter calendar.

As for being present, LUCK extended its reach in a variety of ways. The restaurant was the official snack supplier of the Dallas Brew Bus, while also being a staging point for the 6-Pack Trail's Design District Bike Cruise & Craft Brewery Tour. Plus, you'd have been hard-pressed over the last six years to attend a local beer-centric festival, anniversary party or grand opening event and not see one or more of the founders in attendance.

Moreover, a couple of partners even went all out - literally - for charity, but let's not revisit the LUCK-related visuals arising from that whole North Texas Craft Beerds (and Bellies!) Calendar thing. Hey, at least it helped raise money for a good cause.

Indeed, the North Texas beer scene is better today because of LUCK, and the industry should thank its lucky stars the project came along when it did. Upon opening, there were less than 20 area breweries. Today, there are up around 80, and there's no denying LUCK had a hand in helping to spur that growth.

Now, though, it's on to the next venture. As previously reported, the company behind LUCK is collaborating with Cedar Creek Brewery of Seven Points on a new brewpub called Cedar Creek Brewhouse & Eatery at Mustang Station. So, let's look forward to that, and hope a little bit of LUCK makes its way to Farmers Branch.

Future breweries featured at LUCKapalooza V

Image credit: LUCK.

Simply put, drinking local is how things are done at LUCK in Trinity Groves. Yet, the approach there doesn't just involve supporting those breweries that supply the restaurant's everyday beer lineup. Indeed, it's also about helping to get the word out on up-and-coming brewing companies yet to join the professional ranks.

LUCK goes about the latter by way of events like LUCKapalooza. Billed as a celebration of beer and music, the gathering differs from homebrew competitions that bring together both strict hobbyists and aspiring professionals. Instead, LUCKapalooza strives to offer patrons a taste of what's to come from companies actively working to open their doors in Dallas-Fort Worth.

The festivities were first held in 2015, and since then, over a dozen breweries have appeared at LUCKapalooza prior to going on to pour professionally (two others are opening soon). For 2019, eight more would-be wort wranglers attended the fifth annual event, each looking to add their name to the crop of contenders vying for the crown of next great North Texas craft brewery. Regarding where things stand on these projects, status updates are provided below.

• Soul Fire Brewing Co. is currently under construction in Roanoke, with the brewery going into an existing structure that will house a food hall.
• Also set to occupy existing structures, construction starts are pending at False Idol Brewing of North Richland Hills (currently making beer under license at Oak Cliff Brewing Co.) and Vector Brewing of Dallas.
• Siren Rock Brewing Co. is being built from the ground up in Rockwall, with those behind the operation hoping to begin moving dirt within the next few weeks. Perhaps the most ambitious undertaking listed here, plans call for a 13,000 square foot space to be situated on a 1.25-acre site.
• Groups scouting locations: 2nd Hand Cerveceria (South Fort Worth), Murphy's Law Brew Co. (Johnson County), Village Creek Brewing Co. (Arlington), Bleshoux Brewing Co. (Dallas County).

As for a few notable beers from among the day's offerings, Bleshoux created a bit of buzz with a blue Berliner weisse called Cove Theory. Others rating highly among attendees were False Idol's Train to Valhalla English Barleywine and the beer that ended up being my personal favorite, Duotone Fruited Smoothie Sour from Vector Brewing.

Cedar Creek, LUCK join forces for new brewpub in Farmers Branch

In a move that brings together two well-known members of the North Texas craft beer industry, Cedar Creek Brewery of Seven Points and Chef-Engineered of Dallas have announced a joint venture to open Cedar Creek Brewhouse & Eatery at Mustang Station Restaurant & Retail Park in Farmers Branch.

Cedar Creek Brewery, which originally opened in 2012, has continued to expand its presence in North Texas and beyond, while Chef-Engineered's first restaurant concept, LUCK at Trinity Groves, has also made a significant impression on both the craft beer and dining scene since its Dallas debut in 2013. With this coupling, both companies look to broaden their footprint in a growing, but competitive marketplace.

"While craft beer continues to make an impact in North Texas, and the desire for craft kitchens captures the attention away from chain restaurants, this partnership was an easy decision," says Jim Elliot, founder of Cedar Creek Brewery.

Mustang Station Restaurant & Retail Park is a 40,0000 square foot development owned by Western Securities (Cedar Creek Brewhouse & Eatery).

Cedar Creek Brewhouse & Eatery will combine an award-winning brewery with a from-scratch American regional comfort food kitchen. The idea takes the simple craft brewery one step further with the addition of a full-service restaurant that pairs each meal with a hand-crafted beer.

"Our hearty sandwiches, salads and entrees are the perfect addition to fresh, locally-brewed beer," adds Jeff Dietzman, co-founder of Chef-Engineered.

Current plans call for an opening to occur sometime in the third quarter of 2019. Cedar Creek Brewhouse & Eatery will be located at the intersection of Valley View Ln. and Bee St. in the city's Station Area mixed-use development.

Going over the first Legal drafts

Image credit: Legal Draft Beer Co.

The taproom may not be ready at Legal Draft Beer Co., but the beer apparently is, at least based on the first kegs made available to the public at an event last night at LUCK.

Earlier this year, founders Greg McCarthy and Curt Taylor unveiled their plans to open a brewery in Arlington to be headed by a Doemens-trained brewmaster by the name of Henryk Orlik. The product mix was to include both ales and lagers, some born out of the traditions of Orlik's German homeland, with others leaning on a more American influence.

Given Orlik's background, beers such as Legal Blonde Lager, a Munich helles, and Accused Amber Lager, a classic Vienna-style beer were a virtual given. Yet, having come to the U.S. in 1994, Orlik has been involved in the craft beer movement for over 20 years. His experience during that time includes stints at Abita, Big Bend and other breweries in both North America and Canada, so it's no surprise to find out that styles favored by craft beer lovers are within his wheelhouse as well.

"Henryk is a German brewmaster, so I had no doubt he'd make great lagers," said McCarthy as he mingled with the crowd Thursday evening. "What really impressed me, though, was how he delivered on my requests for an IPA and a stout. I told him what I wanted out of those two beers, and he created exactly what I described."

As for my initial impression of Legal Draft's debut offerings, some basic tasting notes are offered below on what I would call a set of well-crafted, stylistic brews. Try them for yourself at Kool Keg in Arlington on July 14, or at the brewery's grand opening party, which is tentatively scheduled to occur on July 23.


Legal Blonde Lager (4.8% ABV): Aptly described as a classic Munich lager, this beer's grainy-sweet malt flavor falls right in line with the style guidelines for a traditional helles.

Accused Amber Lager (5.5% ABV): Rich, toasted malt leads in this Vienna-style beer which finishes smooth with a clean lager character.

Hung Jury Hefeweizen (5.0% ABV): A straight-forward, though seemingly lighter-bodied approach to a hefeweizen, with the expected notes of banana and clove filling out the flavor.

Chief Justice Stout (6.6% ABV): Notes of coffee and dark chocolate add complexity to this roasty, highly drinkable stout, which finishes with hint of sweetness in the finish.

Presumed Innocent IPA (7.2% ABV): An approachable IPA with good balance, tempered hop presence and a light-to-moderate bitterness.

Two years of local beer at LUCK

Image credits: LUCK, HopFusion Ale Works,
The Manhattan Project Beer Co., Mossberg Brewing (click to enlarge).

In the two years since it opened in Trinity Groves, the Local Urban Craft Kitchen known as LUCK has made a name for itself in both the culinary and craft beer community. The work of partners Jeff Dietzman, Ned Steel and Daniel Pittman has been praised by media outlets like The Dallas Morning News and D Magazine (food, beer), and just last year LUCK appeared on an episode of Frankenfood on Spike TV.

Yet, speaking as someone who follows the beer scene in North Texas, what stands out to me is the enduring support of the local brewing industry. And, just to be clear, this is something that goes well beyond having a locals-only beer menu that plays no favorites among a crop of over 40 different area brewing operations. Though, that alone qualified the place to earn the honor of having the "Best Local Beer Selection" in 2014, as cited by the Dallas Observer.

Looking past that, LUCK shows its support of the industry in a number of other ways, both inside and outside of the actual restaurant. Some things are more visible, like weekly pint nights spotlighting the latest local releases, and events like LUCKapalooza and last week's anniversary party that bring attention to brewers just getting started in the business (more on that below). Then, there are the things that fly under the radar, like if there's a beer festival happening around town, or if a local brewery is having an anniversary or grand opening, it's a virtual certainty that one or more of the founders will be there. I know, because I can't think of a single event I attended this year where I didn't see one or more of them in attendance.

On that note, Steel says the idea of being present in the local scene is something that's ingrained in the mindset of the three partners. "Honestly, our support at the local festivals, new brewery openings, tours, etc. has been an unspoken commitment. We ALL came to the conclusion separately that it was something that was important to us, that is, to show our support whenever possible. We weren't looking to be recognized for it, but we're appreciative when it gets noticed. More than a few of the local brewery owners/brewers have made a point to tell us, individually, how much it means to them to see us out and about, and for us that's just icing on the cake because we enjoy supporting the local beer scene." That support is something that goes both ways, as a number of those owners/brewers Steel is talking about were on hand as LUCK celebrated its second year.

It's hard to argue, though, that the tap wall is where the support of local breweries is most evident on an everyday basis. The topic even finds its way into Steel's reflections on the past two years. "The old adage of 'time flies when you're having fun' holds true with us," he explains, "because while LUCK has been a lot of work, we're having a blast! The craft beer community welcomed us with open arms and we'd like to think we've reciprocated the gesture with each new brewery that has opened their doors over the past two years. We said from the beginning that if your craft brewery operates in North Texas and you want a tap on our wall, you've got it."

Considering their approach up to now, it seems most appropriate that "local" was chosen as the leading term in LUCK's full name. As for the future, Steel makes it clear that we should expect more of the same in terms of how the restaurant will be run. "Going forward LUCK will continue to support the local beer scene by promoting the 'little guys (and girls)' making quality beer, while at the same time presenting a food menu that is approachable to everyone."

Reading that, I'm reminded that the partners listed "sharing our passion for local food and beer at its best" as a goal on LUCK's website. Maybe it's just me, but I'd say they've done a pretty good job of that so far. As for my own reflections on the first two years at LUCK, I'll just say this in reference to something I wrote right after it first opened...I don't even remember what store-bought pastrami looks like.

Cheers!

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More on breweries in development that appeared at the second anniversary celebration:

HopFusion Ale Works

Of the breweries on hand Sunday, HopFusion Ale Works is the only one currently under construction. As of now, founders Matt Hill and Macy Moore are targeting an April opening date for their location at 200 E. Broadway Ave. in Fort Worth. At the event they served what will be both year-round and seasonal selections, including the honey-forward Feisty Blonde and a maple pumpkin creation called Ichabod Canuck. The highlight for me, though, was Zombie Crack, a very well-balanced bourbon oak milk stout brewed with roasted pecans.


Mossberg Brewing

After many years as hobbyists, Mossberg's husband-and-wife team of Jim and Erin Brewer may be ready to take the next step. They are exploring options in Fort Worth, and if things fall into place they plan to be brewing professionally sometime next year with a focus on traditional farmhouse ales and mixed fermentations. While they would have a portfolio of standards, one-off brews and barrel-aged selections would be a part of the mix as well. Favorites of mine they've served at past homebrew events include the beers Balle de Foin (a French saison brewed with spelt) and Purple Drank (a sour brown ale aged on raspberries), with this weekend's pour of Blacker the Berry (blackberry sour) being among their best.


The Manhattan Project Beer Company

Another husband-and-wife team forms part of the group behind The Manhattan Project, with Karl and Misty Sanford being joined by Jeremy Brodt on the venture. To be based in Dallas, beers follow the lead of the company's name in having a nuclear theme. Along those lines, offerings include Bikini Atoll (a cherry gose), Half-Life (a dry-hopped wheat) and Inception (a Belgo-American brown ale). Another brew called Hoppenheimer, a play on the name of nuclear physicist and "father of the atomic bomb" J. Robert Oppenheimer, is said to utilize a strain of Conan yeast, which is well-known for being used to ferment The Alchemist's Heady Topper.

Drink local, eat at LUCK

Image credit: Local Urban Craft Kitchen

When Trinity Groves was initially proposed, its objective was to rebuild and rejuvenate a dormant Dallas neighborhood. Today, as construction continues and new businesses open, this development stands as a symbol of the revitalization going on in different parts of the city.

If you think about it, those of us engaged in the craft beer culture have similar intentions. Brewers, consumers and business owners are working to revive an industry that experienced a boom around the time of the mid-1990s, but which never found its footing and eventually failed. So, it's somehow appropriate that one of Trinity Groves' newest residents would be one which strongly embraces craft beer, and in many ways represents how far we've come in achieving our goals. You might even say LUCK (Local Urban Craft Kitchen), which opened last week in the shadow of the Margaret Hunt Hill Bridge and within walking distance to the Four Corners Brewing Company, is a symbol of the revitalization going on in our local craft beer community.

It all starts with the food, though nothing about it suggests they simply tore a page out of a gastropub standard operations manual. Had they done so, you would expect to find things like the obligatory beer battered fish and chips, or entrees infused with a particularly ubiquitous Irish beer. Instead phrases like "beer cheese fondue", "white cheddar cheese beer sauce", "brown butter ale sauce" and "beer battered apple fritter funnel cake" speak to a more enlightened inspiration. And, if there's any doubt about whether these freshly made items actually contain beer, keep an eye out for the kitchen personnel constantly heading for the bar. They should be easy to spot, as they come armed with a measuring cup which they'll fill with locally made beer.

For its only local flavor you'll find here. One of the reasons they don't serve Guinness Stew, or Guinness anything else for that matter, is because that beer isn't on the menu. You won't find any other imports either, nor will you find a single beer brewed in another state. As a matter of fact, there's nothing on tap that isn't brewed within 75 miles of the restaurant.

Therein lies the moral to our story. There are 40 taps, pouring exclusively North Texas beer. A few years ago, such a thing would not have seemed possible. When we had only two breweries, it was a struggle to find even a single tap of local beer at many area pubs, much less at a dining establishment. Now, we have 13 breweries producing 14 brands in and around Dallas, and not one of them has been left out at LUCK. Can you say progress? I think this craft beer thing may finally be catching on.

Beer list aside, though, I have to say that the experience of the housemade pastrami sandwich alone would be enough to get me back in the door. The only word I could come up with to describe it was "ridiculous" (that should probably be typed in all caps). Honestly, I'm not sure I'll ever look at lunch meat the same way again.

LUCK at Trinity Groves
3011 Gulden Lane, Suite #112
Dallas

*Originally published on Examiner.com